March 2011 - and we heading for Etosha. Why - because there was a half price special on. I never wanted to go to Etosha as I had heard it was over commercialized and blah de blah de blah - but here I was bombing towards the Botswana border for my first trip to Etosha - with some stops in between.
I am the first to eat my words - it is a wonderland - even if there are no elephant!
Etosha - There are no elephants in Etosha! *
Re: Etosha - There are no elephants in Etosha!
We left very early as we had a fairly long drive to our first stop over. We had decided to take the well traveled route using the trans Kalahari highway. Our first stop would be Kang which is approximately 730 kilometers. Now this is a distance these two old f....t's normally do not travel in a single trip - especially in a 4x4 that does not have much speed on the tar. We pootled along not knowing how busy the border would be. Fortunately there were not too many trucks and we crossed the border with a few minor hiccups as the officials had different opinions of what we had to declare and we would could take.
The minute we crossed the border the traffic problems became the inevitable goats, donkey's and dogs. It was a long day and by the time we arrived at Kang - which I am sure they kept moving further and further away - the sun was sapping all our energy. Filling the tank and setting up camp did not take long. We were soon entertained by a donkey so full of energy galloping - yes - galloping along braying as if the world was coming to an end. We had an early supper at the restaurant and went to bed with the birds.
Sparrows the following morning - which in fact is rather late as the sun only crawls out of bed after six - we had packed up and waited for full daylight as we did not want to risk hitting the many living road blocks that sleep on the roads.
We had another long drive to Ngepi for a two day stop over. The distance was approximately 630 kilometers but the roads would not be as good as we had travelled from South Africa. We were also concerned as the we had heard the water levels of the Kavango River were high and we were not sure if the camp sight would be under water or not.
Another extremely hot day and after taking a scenic route we eventually stopped for brunch under a tree on the side of the road where we were joined by a herd of cattle and a very old horse. Deciding to put petrol at the next available place as we did not know how far it would be to the next filling station. No such luck - no petrol available. Fortunately this was not a major problem but instead of heading straight to camp we headed for petrol which was past the camp. I hate having to double back on my tracks.
Ngepi - what can I say about a place that has the most wonderful sense of humour - which is depicted in signs dotted all over the camp. A few tasters!
these are just a few -
The camp is beautiful and the camp sites area along the rivers edge. Open air showers and toilets with a view of the river.
Two days for relaxation and just enjoying the peace and quiet of being away from the concrete jungle before heading for our first night in Etosha at Halali which was only a 560 kilometer drive.
.
The minute we crossed the border the traffic problems became the inevitable goats, donkey's and dogs. It was a long day and by the time we arrived at Kang - which I am sure they kept moving further and further away - the sun was sapping all our energy. Filling the tank and setting up camp did not take long. We were soon entertained by a donkey so full of energy galloping - yes - galloping along braying as if the world was coming to an end. We had an early supper at the restaurant and went to bed with the birds.
Sparrows the following morning - which in fact is rather late as the sun only crawls out of bed after six - we had packed up and waited for full daylight as we did not want to risk hitting the many living road blocks that sleep on the roads.
We had another long drive to Ngepi for a two day stop over. The distance was approximately 630 kilometers but the roads would not be as good as we had travelled from South Africa. We were also concerned as the we had heard the water levels of the Kavango River were high and we were not sure if the camp sight would be under water or not.
Another extremely hot day and after taking a scenic route we eventually stopped for brunch under a tree on the side of the road where we were joined by a herd of cattle and a very old horse. Deciding to put petrol at the next available place as we did not know how far it would be to the next filling station. No such luck - no petrol available. Fortunately this was not a major problem but instead of heading straight to camp we headed for petrol which was past the camp. I hate having to double back on my tracks.
Ngepi - what can I say about a place that has the most wonderful sense of humour - which is depicted in signs dotted all over the camp. A few tasters!
these are just a few -
The camp is beautiful and the camp sites area along the rivers edge. Open air showers and toilets with a view of the river.
Two days for relaxation and just enjoying the peace and quiet of being away from the concrete jungle before heading for our first night in Etosha at Halali which was only a 560 kilometer drive.
.
Re: Etosha - There are no elephants in Etosha!
A pleasant day was spent swimming and travelling down the river in a mokoro - or as we were told by our guide a woto (sp?) Mokoro is the Botswana name not the Namibian name. He took us for a walk towards his village. This man had the gift of telling stories. Then a slow ride home between the lily pads and the birds and reeds. A wonderful way to see the river - but I was glad to get home as it is not the most comfortable means of transport.
Having survived this trip and the hippo's it was time for another peaceful evening listening to the sounds of the river. only problem was - the heavens decided to open and that was the end of sitting watching the water trundle past.
Sunrise and time for the final leg of our hop to Etosha. A slow drive - again stopping on the side of the road for brunch. No problems at the veterinary fence simply because they didn't ask nor did they see my freezer. I cannot see how vacuum packed frozen meat can be a problem when crossing borders - especially as it has been bought from a reputable outlet.
Late aftern noon the gates of Etosha were in front of us. Booking in was a pleasure. We did not want to waste much time as we were not sure how long it would take us to get to camp. The tar ends very soon after the entrance but the roads are wide and not corrugated. the speed limit is higher than Sanparks but we still drove at our normal speed of about 30 kph. The weather was setting in and it was getting dark very quickly.
In front of us was a log stretching across the road. We carefully made our way round said log - when it moved. African python - it was huge. mad scramble for camera - but too late and all thats was left was a tail disapearing into the undergrowth.
Having survived this trip and the hippo's it was time for another peaceful evening listening to the sounds of the river. only problem was - the heavens decided to open and that was the end of sitting watching the water trundle past.
Sunrise and time for the final leg of our hop to Etosha. A slow drive - again stopping on the side of the road for brunch. No problems at the veterinary fence simply because they didn't ask nor did they see my freezer. I cannot see how vacuum packed frozen meat can be a problem when crossing borders - especially as it has been bought from a reputable outlet.
Late aftern noon the gates of Etosha were in front of us. Booking in was a pleasure. We did not want to waste much time as we were not sure how long it would take us to get to camp. The tar ends very soon after the entrance but the roads are wide and not corrugated. the speed limit is higher than Sanparks but we still drove at our normal speed of about 30 kph. The weather was setting in and it was getting dark very quickly.
In front of us was a log stretching across the road. We carefully made our way round said log - when it moved. African python - it was huge. mad scramble for camera - but too late and all thats was left was a tail disapearing into the undergrowth.
-
Bushveld Jock
- Posts: 2001
- Joined: Sat Jun 02, 2012 3:52 pm
- Contact:
Re: Etosha - There are no elephants in Etosha!
Hi moggiedog,
Great start.
. We did the trip the other way round. Coming back home from Ngepi we drove past Etosha and decided to fill up at Gumare where they had no fuel. We decided not to back track but continue to Maun which is only 160 km away by GPS and tank 140 km left before empty. Only later I realised it was how the crow fly or if you traveling in a Mokoro. Luckily we got fuel at Sehitwa, which is not indicated as a fuel point on most maps.
Well let me not take over. I see you did not include the Ngepi toilet humor. -O Just a note on the time zone. In winter Ngepi operates on SA time and not Namibian. It would not have bothered you because you where there in March, but we missed there cut off time for ordering dinner due to the difference in time zone with our watches set on Nam time. Eish!
Great start.
. We did the trip the other way round. Coming back home from Ngepi we drove past Etosha and decided to fill up at Gumare where they had no fuel. We decided not to back track but continue to Maun which is only 160 km away by GPS and tank 140 km left before empty. Only later I realised it was how the crow fly or if you traveling in a Mokoro. Luckily we got fuel at Sehitwa, which is not indicated as a fuel point on most maps. Well let me not take over. I see you did not include the Ngepi toilet humor. -O Just a note on the time zone. In winter Ngepi operates on SA time and not Namibian. It would not have bothered you because you where there in March, but we missed there cut off time for ordering dinner due to the difference in time zone with our watches set on Nam time. Eish!
-
Bushveld Jock
- Posts: 2001
- Joined: Sat Jun 02, 2012 3:52 pm
- Contact:
Re: Etosha - There are no elephants in Etosha!
We stocked up with meat in Tsumeb only to be stopped at the Vet Fence after Grootfontein to Rundu. We explained that we coming from Grootfontein and without any search proceeded. Some where not that lucky at the fence after the Kavango river to Katimo Malilo. This means you cannot shop in Rundu and take meat over the Kavango river or vice versa. Strange laws but easy way the get meat from visitors to braai that evening. Our neighbours at Ngepi had to cook their meat next to the control point, because they refuse to loose it.moggiedog wrote:Lisbeth - being as slack as I am - normally cooked from frozen -O
What slays me is the local people buy fly infested meat from the "shops' on the side of the road and throw it in the boot of their car - yet they are not stopped at the vet check points when they head for home - makes no sense.
Maybe warm fly infested meat is concerned as cooked meat.
Re: Etosha - There are no elephants in Etosha!
Must be very honest - I refuse to hand over my meat - I either burn it or give it to any stray dogs (if there are any wandering around). If there are some local people on the 'right' side of the fence I will give it to them. Botswana is far worse than Namibia for the vet fences and the ridiculous stuff they confiscate. On one trip they took a tinned danish ham!!
-
Bushveld Jock
- Posts: 2001
- Joined: Sat Jun 02, 2012 3:52 pm
- Contact:
Re: Etosha - There are no elephants in Etosha!
We took two fridges along. One in the trailer and one in the boot. When they asked us we also said just chicken. On the trailer are about 5 lock to open. After taking about 10 minutes to open just to show an empty fridge with cooldrinks they let you go and do not bother about the rest. Just before Moremi they also stop you, but one can go through but not allowed to return to Maun with the meat that you bought in Maun...
Re: Etosha - There are no elephants in Etosha!
With the weather deteriorating we were getting concerned about the time. We started driving a bit faster - when a tour guide signaled frantically for us to take a detour. He was pointing towards some critter lying under a tree. Checking the time we decided we could stop for a few moments to have a look see.
We waited to see if this beautiful creature would lift his head but it had obviously had a very hard day and was sleeping like the dead. Leaving him to his dreams we carried on towards camp.
I regretted that our time was so short as the scenes that unfolded before us were magical. Plains animals wandered across the heavily grassed landscape as the thunder heads built in the background. Lightening danced across the sky accompanied by the distant boom of thunder. Not the heart stopping thunder that is so often heard over the highveld but thunder non the less.
Finally arriving at Halali we decided to have a snack for our supper rather than braaing in the rain. Tomorrow was another day and we would have plenty of time on our hands to explore the wonders of Etosha.
A ribbon of colour across the sky held promises of wonderful things to come.
We waited to see if this beautiful creature would lift his head but it had obviously had a very hard day and was sleeping like the dead. Leaving him to his dreams we carried on towards camp.
I regretted that our time was so short as the scenes that unfolded before us were magical. Plains animals wandered across the heavily grassed landscape as the thunder heads built in the background. Lightening danced across the sky accompanied by the distant boom of thunder. Not the heart stopping thunder that is so often heard over the highveld but thunder non the less.
Finally arriving at Halali we decided to have a snack for our supper rather than braaing in the rain. Tomorrow was another day and we would have plenty of time on our hands to explore the wonders of Etosha.
A ribbon of colour across the sky held promises of wonderful things to come.
Re: Etosha - There are no elephants in Etosha!
Once again thanks for the interaction.
PRwin - I gather you did not have a good time at Ngepi. I can imagine it can get very noisy and busy due to the overlanders stopping there - but we were fortunate that when went at a time when virtually no other people there. The first night there was rather a loud party in the pub - but we were far enough away that it did not impact very seriously on our stay. I doubt I would stay there in the busy seas.
PRwin - I gather you did not have a good time at Ngepi. I can imagine it can get very noisy and busy due to the overlanders stopping there - but we were fortunate that when went at a time when virtually no other people there. The first night there was rather a loud party in the pub - but we were far enough away that it did not impact very seriously on our stay. I doubt I would stay there in the busy seas.
Re: Etosha - There are no elephants in Etosha!
As we all know days fade into nights and nights blend into days. The following few days had plenty to keep us occupied and relaxed. In a large open strech f grassland a head bobbed up and down like a jack-in-the box. It it hadn't been for the movement we would never have seen the cat. A herd of springbok lower down were very aware that they were being hunted, but the distance was great - a hunt doomed for failure for the cheetah.
One thing about Etosha - you never drive far without seeing some form of animal life - even in the wet season. Moving on from the cat we drove past many plains animals. From gemsbok to ostriche. One of the animals that can amuse me for hours are ground suirrel. their huge unbrella tale and their quircky faces all add to the fun of watching their antics - especially the young. This little family were full of nonsense.
Moving on we decided to drive up to the pan. It seemed we were not the only ones heading in the same direction.
One thing about Etosha - you never drive far without seeing some form of animal life - even in the wet season. Moving on from the cat we drove past many plains animals. From gemsbok to ostriche. One of the animals that can amuse me for hours are ground suirrel. their huge unbrella tale and their quircky faces all add to the fun of watching their antics - especially the young. This little family were full of nonsense.
Moving on we decided to drive up to the pan. It seemed we were not the only ones heading in the same direction.