Kruger - The time has come *

[Moggiedog]

Before the caffeine fix




The king of the jungle

[Jillinflorida]

Just walked in my front door about 2 hrs ago - Have been up for over 24 hrs (yet again - this is NOT a habit I'm keen on)

Anyway, promise to write trip report this weekend, complete with photos....since Moggie was so kind to put some zombie photos of me up, I shall return the favor.....wait till I tell you about our 2nd night in a camp in a tent. Moggie trying to convince me to become a camper....nope - prefer walls and solid roof. However, our giggles in the middle of the night may have been mistaken for Hyenas.

For now I'm off to bed. I WILL be returning to Kruger - don't know when, but my hubby MUST see it. He would be awed as I was.

[Moggiedog]

Stopped at Pafuri picnic for a snack lunch and a leg stretch. The dry sandy river bed was alive with various animals drinking, as it seemed, the sand. A male nyala down to his shoulders in a hole dug by elephant did not lift his head as he sucked up the life giving moisture. Baboons and vervets - forever watchful - slaked their thirst in the small puddles along the rivers edge.
Groups of impala standing in the shade of the tress as the Sun relentlessly sucked the energy out of man and beast.
Time to move on to Crooks Corner. A slow drive with many turn outs to look down onto the river bed. I don't think I have ever seen the river so dry. Perhaps my memory was just faulty. Elephant shaking their heads to cool down - giving us disinterested looks as we drove slowly past.
At crooks corner - two fish eagle sat high in the tree before taking off into the distance with the haunting cry of Africa. Birds of all shapes and sizes danced from branch to branch as small groups of impala meandered between the bushes. Crocs framed the waters edge. large and small - lying motionless in the sun as they warmed their bodies on the baking sand. A fleeting sighting of a bush buck as it disappeared into the undergrowth.
Elephant were not in short supply but whether it was the heat or the time of the year they had no interest in the people watching them. These mighty beasts turned their backs and vanished in a blink of an eye.
Drained and melting in the heat we headed for camp - but before we could see to our own comfort we had to slake the thirst of our rapidly dehydrating vehicles. Three ground hornbill marched along the side of the road doing what hornbill do - then deciding we were some form of threat and hastily made their way into the long grass..
We were all looking forward to something ice cold to drink - Jill was desperate for her life giving cup of tea. Although we were well stocked with water and juice - it was still frozen and not that easy to quench our thirst whilst driving. The problem in kruger or any other park - there is always something stop for - whether a bird, a snake or petrol at the closest petrol pump.
We headed for Punda to fill our thirsty vehicles and to stock up on some ice cold (unfrozen) water. Just outside Punda a lioness and her cub lay in the grass. The little one very curious - but mother was very content to pant in her shady spot. It looked like they had just eaten and she was in no hurry to get up and move, much easier just to ignore the world around her.
Time was moving on and so did we.

[Moggiedog]

Jill - we are waiting...........

We arrived at camp and is wasn't long before we were unpacked and settled in for the night. The wind was blowing great guns and the flames of the fire danced out in all directions. Having been with people all day - it was time to meander off on my own and have some solitary time. I took a slow walk round the camp examining spider webs, watching various birds battle the wind which was howling through the trees.
Once the evening meal was finished we sat around chit-chatting about our sightings for the day. Jill was astounded that we had already seen three of the big five plus plenty of general game. The wind was so strong and so loud it was not ideal to sit outside and enjoy the night sounds.

The next morning after a caffeine fix we hit the road and headed for Shingwedzi.This was the day the first of the kamikazi squirrels attcked my car. Out of the grass a little squirrel came flying as if all demons from hell where after it. I slammed on brakes - never a good idea on a dirt road - My heart pounding I wondered if the little creature had survived the attack on my car. No little body on the road. Huge relief but it took a long time for my nerves to stop quivering.

Round the next bend a young elephant was attempting to hide behind a bush. He was happily munching away on his breakfast - but his back end was a rather daunting road block.Not knowing if he was alone we slowly edged our way closer and close. With a disdainful look he walked off into the bush giving us a clear run of the road.

A little further we pulled off into a look out and we were presented with a beautiful picture of Saddlebilled stalks, fish eagle and a hammerkop all enjoying the morning sun. The day was slightly overcast but the Sun broke through to spotlight these wonderful birds.

Game was comparitively scarce but impala and nyala were plentiful. A waterbuck peered at us from behind some thick bushes before he made his way down to the water,

After a relaxing breakfast we headed back towards camp. I was on a mission to find leopard. It was midday and most sensible creatures where sheltering in the shade. Just us humans were braving the heat of the day. About half way back to camp - sitting on the branches of a tree -



(photo by Jill)

Jills face was a picture. The emotion and the excitement in the car was something I had not experienced for a long time. We looked at each other and must have both looked like demented cheshire cats.



Mission accomplished!

[Moggiedog]

Thanks all for joining the ride and your comments - Jill did get a magic pic. it was a wonderful sighting.

RP it was along the 556 roughly halfway between Shingwedzi and Sirheni. We have always been lucky with leopard on this stetch. It was on the 556 we saw the leopard with her cub on a kill in a tree - shoooooooo - that was a mouthful. When I saw this leopard I couldn't help wondering if it was the cub we saw with its mother a few years ago.

This pic was taken in the same area a couple of years ago.

[Moggiedog]

Excitement over and done with - camp and tea were calling. A slow drive home. Pick up some iced drinks from the freezer. Time to sit back and ponder on the beautiful cat we had seen. A few other smaller creatures were seen on the way back to camp.

General game was spotted - but exhaustion was setting in and fleeting glimpses was enough to satisfy us. An early supper was in order and I could hear my bed calling me in a plaintiff tone.
The following day would be another comparatively long drive and we still had to find number five. Its not often that the cats are the first of the big five - but in our case - we were missing the rhino.
Unfortunately the clash of the titans was building. I could see the reasons behind the clash - but I realized it would have to come to a head sooner or later.. playing peace maker is not always easy - but for the well being of all concerned - it was the ball that had to be played.
I called mother and the two of us went for a long walk around camp. Darkness was descending in more ways than one.
Early the next morning the cars were packed and once again we hit the dusty roads and wendered our way towards the next stop.
General game was - once again - plentiful. From zebra crossings to elephant crossings - it seemed that there were wall to wall elephant - or should I say fence to fence elephant on this trip. Once again I noticed how placid and easy going the elephant were. Having so often had confrontation with elephant - it was a pleasure to see the gentle giant side of these creatures.
Not wanting to alarm anyone - I had noticed I had a problem with starting my car. Each time we came to a sighting - I kept the engine running as I was not sure if we would get going again. I had had problems with my immobilizer in the past which three different institutes had not been able to identify. I sent up a silent prayer that I was not going to get stuck - especially if in close proximatey to nellies. As much as
I love these creatures but I do have a healthy respect for them - and prefer to keep my distance.
We were at the stage we were calling impala "borings" - and elephant sightings "just an Ellie"
On route we saw lion on top of the hill -but not close enough to take photographs. Jill did get a silhouette of the lion under a tree (JILL - were are your pics?)

[Jillinflorida]

MD - I can not, for the life of me, figure out how to post my pics. I've put them on flicka in a smaller format to be able to load and - zip - nada - squat. Can't get them to load....Besides you're doing a brilliant job. YOU post the pictures. The one's I have on flicka are the ones I was going to use - including that lizard - but it shows his forked tongue. (okay MD - thank you - easy once you know how!!!)

As for my trip report - I can't remember what I've posted (if anything) should I start with the beginning???

Arrived at Tambo airport (Johannesburg) Given a very warm welcome – and three days to recover from that horrible flight before leaving on our journey.

We stayed two nights in Graskop, went to Sudwala Caves. That was an adventure all by itself. I swear Moggie was trying to see if I would cope with Kruger! Moggie was very unkind taking a ‘rear view’ image of me going through lumbago ‘tunnel’. I had to bend in half. Imagine my horror when we had to go out the same way!!! Pay back -



Next day we went to Pilgrams’ Rest and the Potholes. Told “B” – I come all this way and all you’re showing me are HOLES in the ground? (yes I have a perverse sense of humor) Absolutely breathtaking & have some wonderful photos, which MD has already shared with you.

Our next night was spent just outside the Parfuri gate – in tented tree houses. Now admittedly Moggie DID ask if this would be okay – and I thought it would be a bit of a lark. She assured me we would have toilets in our tents. (3am down a flight of steps/ladder with no light other than lamps was NOT going to happen) Well they switched our booking and no toilets…..I was exhausted by the time we arrived. It was hot and all I wanted to do was go to bed. I’d already turned off the lamp when Moggie came up and asked if I was okay – did I want her to share the tent with me. My rude and abrupt reply was no. Woke at dawn and was much more social. We were packing up ready to hit Parfuri Gate & I was nearly ready to leave my tent when a Pervert dropped onto the roof. I shrieked but more from being startled than any real fright. As MD posted some pics of the treehouses I won't repeat...

Entering Parfuri Gate Sept 15th. Got our wildcards….with 5 of us it took forever but was well worth the wait. Within a few minutes of entering we’d seen Nyala, Giraffe, Impala. 2 lions – one in a small pride, buffalo, baboons, ververt, vultures, ellies, curly horn kudu, lilac breasted roller, ground horn bill, hippos, zebra, crocs, slender mongoose and water buck. THIS IS DAY ONE!!!!! I was already hooked on Kruger – and we won’t tell ANYONE about the north!!! No game in the north – stay in the south!!






Loved that I caught his forked tongue.

Met Frank (ranger) bird man and had pic taken with him at Purfuri Picnic area. What a nice person. Have I mentioned I’m not ‘into’ birds – ha! That changed on this trip too. It appears that MD failed in her duty of actually taking a pic of me with Frank, the ranger, ah well don't think she'd used my camera before.

Stopped at Crooks Corner – took lots of pictures of history.

First night in Kruger was at Sirheni. Weather still hot. I’d packed for ‘spring’ and certainly my clothes were too warm for the car. Slept like a log. Even the generator starting at 5:30 am, which started the fridge, didn’t wake me up.

To say I fell in love with Kruger is an understatement. MD did a fantastic job of booking a full realm of what Kruger is about. She and SO did ALL the driving, cooking and most of the packing up the cars – in fairness though, the cars were SO packed I couldn’t have managed to fit so much into such a small space.

On way to our first camp we stopped off at Punda Maria – a shop, oh that is dangerous, but I was good and only bought post cards to send to family/friends at home – poor them not being with us! Weather is still very hot but with plenty to hydrate us we were fine.

First night is at Sirheni. We arrived about 4pm. Lovely camp, great accommodations.

Friday Sept 16th. It’s cool and windy so we didn’t rush out of camp, it was a nice relief after the heat of yesterday and day before. Walked around the perimeter fence, saw the dam on the river and our cabin was along the river. Saw a breeding herd of elephants on the far side of the river, complete with teens & babies. There were elephants just outside the perimeter of fence during the night I assume – alas we only saw the evidence of them. I certainly didn’t hear a thing as was deep into noddy land (sleep)




We took a drive to Shingedzi for lunch. On the way, we saw bull elephant, giraffe, various birds – including the Lilac breasted roller which I’d only seen pictures of before. I learned very early on our trip to ALWAYS have the camera on my lap. We saw buffalo, waterbuck, bushbuck, hartebees, saddlebill stalk, which MD told me is endangered, fish eagle, monitor lizard, all the usuals and a dwarf mongoose. On the way back MD SLAMMED the brakes on and shouted LEOPARD in tree. I got a picture, but I think my heart was jolted without the benefit of caffeine. So on my 2nd day in Kruger saw 4 of the Big 5 – is that incredible and lucky?

Saturday Sept 17th - Another good night sleep and we were off onto our next camp. (again kudos to MD and hubby for the superb organization and driving)

We stopped at the Tropic of Capricorn “line”. I want you to know I knew NOTHING of how this was going to be posed but you can see clearly how I was totally serious.

-O [/i]

[Jillinflorida]

Oh I forgot to put in the lazy lion. Didn't care at all that we were stopped and taking pictures.

[Jillinflorida]

We stopped at Mopari for refreshments. Everything is just so new and wondrous to me.

**Here’s something I will mention. I bought a phone card to call home to my hubby. I could not get it to work from the pay phones at several camps. Another woman I saw had the same problem. Yet when we returned to MD and SO’s I was able to use it from their phone. They don’t tell you THAT in the camps. Not sure it’s their responsibility, but it would be nice to warn people! Also R50 phone card is plenty to make several calls! I bought R100 – So MD, when are you going to phone me?**

Our next stop was Shimwina (spelling??) Our cabin was along the river, and end boundary fence. Shine was the resident Duiker (spelling). I loved the way she would wander cabin to cabin in the evenings – like a host checking that all was well with her guests. I think this was my favorite camp, despite certain problems with the cabin. However, the staff couldn’t have been more helpful – especially Johann, Porcha & Bob. I took a walk along the perimeter fence. Waterbuck across river, Hippos upriver roaring and splashing, it was an absolute delight and I could just feel the peace and tranquility running through me. Bliss.

After eating another delightful meal prepared and cooked by MD we walked outside to look at the stars. What a brilliant show, although it did seem weird to me not to be able to the see the Big Dipper as we do from the northern hemisphere. MD complained it wasn’t dark enough, but to me it was fabulous. Still can’t see the Southern Cross – but the stars were enough to enthrall me.

Right after that, MD went down to the fence and turned on her torch/flashlight. There was a hippo RIGHT by the fence. He wasn’t happy being disturbed by our light so we left him to his wanderings, enjoying hearing him with his various grunts.

We have a black/white bird nesting in the thatch roof beam. Mom and Dad were in and out building their nest. It amuses me how soon this just became normal to me. I could stay here for a week.

Love this place, yet MD says viewing is poor. Boy did the animals make a liar out of her!!

I took a shower and was in my night attire with the plan that I would relax and just enjoy the night sounds….



Not sure what this species was – oh wait, it’s me, complete with ‘torch’ glasses, hat and mosquito spray. Gave everyone a good laugh.


Sunday Sept 18th. 3 am the hippos are chatting and splashing. I got up to see if I could see anything but no – not even with my ‘torch’ glasses – perhaps I scared them off!! 6 am the hippos are playing/bathing just up river. They are very noisy this morning. Birds chirping. It was lovely. Took video of the hippos – I zoomed in really close – came out very wobbly but was great to see them in their natural element.

It was decided to have a day in camp. Sounded good to me. I’m sure MD and SO were happy to take a day off driving – and I can’t blame them.

About 11 am MD and I walked up to reception to take care of some ‘business’ - as we left we heard roar of elephants. Cutting through path to riverside we saw a herd of breeding ellies. They were walking along the perimeter fence down into the water. We thought there were about 10. They drank, had a dust bath, pulling up grass to eat – the sound of that was quite loud – another first for me. They proceeded to move along river toward our cabin – which was at opposite end of the camp. This was at cabin 1 and we were 15. Missed seeing them come up to the fence and into the water as neither MD or I had cameras with us. I RAN back to get my camera – telling anyone who would listen, through my wheezing, about the herd. The weather was still glorious – but I was soaked through from my ‘jog’. It’s amazing how fast you forget about thirst or hunger when you get a sight like this.

MD, SO & MD's Mom enjoying the view.

[Moggiedog]

This was an amazing day. From the time the ellies arrived - or should I say we saw/heard them - it took them 7 hours to make there way across the river and then disappear into the distance. Sadly I did not have my camera ready when mom and baby crossed and the all that could be seen of the little one was his trunk acting as a snorkel.
Just prior to crossing the little one was climbing up the side of the river when a whirl wind whipped its way straight at him. Trunk up ears out he spun round and took off at the speed of light back to the safety of mom's side. The whirl wind stirred up a fountain of water us it dashed across the river - finally dissolving into nothingness on the opposite side of the river.

The young teenager was full of his own importance. More spunk than intent. I always find it strange - I have no problem being on foot with elephant (with or without fences) - but in a vehicle I am extremely nervous. Perhaps I feel trapped -


An Island - but when the ellies arrived the terrapin vanished!


This croc was following the ellies down the river


fading into the sunset



Finally the end of a perfect day


What a wonderful relaxing day we all had. It was extremely hot and to be able to sit around camp and watch the birds and the elephant was pure heaven. Jill - I think we should do this again very, very soon :D - then again - sure you don't want to go and see the largest migration of mammals in the world with me?