Saffies and Aussies visit Namibia and The KTP*

[puppy]

Monday 8 June 2015 Windhoek to The Waterberg Plateau

Our hostess, Anthea, cooks us a superb breakfast and tries to get an appointment with dentist for Erich because he has broken a tooth. Unfortunately he is unable to see him straight away and as Erich is in no pain he decides to leave it until we return to Windhoek in a week’s time.

The birds are active at the feeding table and bird bath and before we leave I take a few photographs of these cute little blue waxbills and black-throated canaries.

On our way to the Waterberg Platteaux we stop to shop and refuel at Okahandju. The street markets look interesting so we decide to browse. The traders are pushy and call for us to come into their shops. We look at some necklaces and small bowls in one and ask how much. He shows us a hugely inflated price on the calculator on his cell phone and says - "This is my normal price - but because you are my first customer today - I will give it to you for less." The price offered is still way too much so I help Wendy bargain. "$400 is my final offer." I tell him after haggling for several minutes. He looks upset and annoyed and shakes his head so we turn to leave. He calls us back - Fine -You can have it all for $400 but it means I will starve!"

We wanted to browse at some more shops but the pushiness of the traders put us off and we escaped as fast as we could. It's a pity - because if they offered a reasonable price to begin with they would get more customers and make more money! Every trader who approached us after this began with - because you're my first customer, I will give you a special price!

Earl decides to buy some braai meat and salads as he has a feeling that there might be a place to braai at The Waterberg. When I booked in I was told there was no self-catering at any of the Namibian Wildlife Reserve chalets.

When we check in, we find that we could have had one chalet instead of 2. The person who booked me in had not explained that I only needed one chalet for 4 people although she knew perfectly well I was booking for 4! There is a fridge and kettle in the chalet but it is not equipped with any other catering utensils. There is, however, a braai! I have my own catering equipment so we are delighted to be able to have a home cooked meal for a change. The cottages are clean and comfortable and banded mongoose are there to welcome us.







After snacking on last night’s leftovers from Joe’s Beer House we go for a 4 hour game drive on the plateaux. It is fun and we see giraffe, sable, buffalo, springbok, impala, eland and kudu. We hope to see the rhino but no luck in this respect!

Damara Hornbill


Erich and Wendy enjoying the view

Buffalo seen from the hide



Giraffe

Sunset


It is warm travelling up to the plateau but the sun is etting on our return and so the chill sets in. Luckily we have our warm jackets and rugs with us. There are also rugs available on the vehicle.

We have a lovely braai for supper and turn in early so as to be ready to leave for Etosha tomorrow.

[puppy]

Tuesday 9 June 2015 -Namutoni

We are up early to get the car is packed and ready for our after breakfast departure.

We start our slow trip up the dirt road and stop to watch birds including lilac breasted roller

Pied Babbler

Marico Fly Catcher

and Yellow-billed hornbill

We are some kilometres away when it suddenly strikes me that I have left my expensive ski-jacket in the cupboard in our room. There is a quick u turn as we race back to get it. Earlybird is surprisingly tolerant about this

On the way back we see dik dik in the bushes which made the return trip worthwhile



Here is a view of the Waterberg Plateau

and an amazing termine mound

Finally we arrive at Namutoni

and soon we settle into our comfortable cabins



After unpacking, a snack and a cold drink we can't wait to get out into the park.
A stunning giraffe

zebra

Grey hornbill

Black-faced impala
Rhino trying to hide

bored looking elephant

sandgrouse

Double banded courser

Northern Black Korhaan

and a kori bustard

It's a good start to our stay in the Etosha National Park

[puppy]

Wednesday 10 June 2015 - Namutoni

We are second car out of the gate after handing in our laundry at reception on 6:10 am. The gate is meant to open at 6:25. It is light and Earl persuades the guys to open a tad earlier so were on the road by 6:15.

Giraffe are the order of the day today and we see them everywhere. They are my favourite animal as to me they are a true iconic African creature. There is nothing nicer than seeing a landscape dotted with tall giraffe.

Here is our first early morning sighting of these elegant creatures

In Etosha they seem to be darker and dustier than the Kruger giraffe. I know the males are darker and get darker and darker as they age too.

I love the way they drink


Of course Earlybird and I stop to see every bird and this confuses our guests. “I can’t understand it,”says Erich “You stop for a tiny little bird but drive straight past a Wildebeest.” After that we stop for every impala, springbok, ostrich and wildebeest and try to see the park through the eyes of a novice to the wilds of Africa!

ostriches fascinated them too

They did like the lilac-breasted roller

And the beautiful juvenile Gabar


and who can't appreciate a juvenile African Harrier Hawk

Of course we did not ignore the handsome zebra



And a beautiful steenbok

We return to camp just after 8 for breakfast and do not go out again until after lunch at 1:00 pm.

Earlybird and Erich nap for a while. Wendy goes to buy gifts at the curio shop, I go to the waterhole and walk around camp but I'm disappointed at the lack of birdlife. Then Wendy and I join up and spend some time at the pool. It is hot but the water is freezing. Wendy and I chat on our lounges and then she says, “That water looks so inviting. I think we should at least attempt a swim.” “Is that a challenge?” I ask She smiles. I get up and made my way to the shallow end and she follows. I can't believe how cold it is but Wendy goes down one step at a time and I can't let her outdo me. Soon we both plunge in and I gasp and yell at the chill! We swim two lengths and then get out. It is very invigorating but how crazy are we! A young German couple look at us in disbelief – Wendy pipes – When you get older you tend to do crazy things!
Earlybird comes along and I walk up to give him a wet hug but he yells and won’t let me near. I plunge back into the pool and he takes a photograph!


Our afternoon drive is just as exciting. As we make our way to the Kalkheuwel water hole, I shriek when an elephant suddenly appears on the road in front of us. He raises his trunk, trumpets loudly and charges toward us.

Earlybird goes into full speed reverse. He keeps his cool and as he says – Stop being naughty - to an elephant who clearly can't hear him. But he must get a mental message because with one last trumpet he charges into the bush. “I think I might need a clean pair of underpants,” Erich declares. Phew – we all laugh nervously. Our adrenalin rush for the day.
Some creatures we see before we return
Swallowtailed bee-eater

Ellie

Kori Bustard taking a drink

We visit the waterhole when we return but there is not much happening so we have sundowners and then go to dinner - another buffet.

[puppy]

Thursday 11 June 2015 Namutoni to Halali

We are packed and ready to leave after our usual excellent restaurant breakfast.
It is a zebra day today. We see them in huge herds and wonder if they are having a convention!

This mommy and baby are alone though

There are lots of wildebeest too which excites Erich no end

At one waterhole we see a hyena

and at Kalkheuwel we find a young elephant that has met his end. We'd seen the ellies there the day before and couldn't understand what might have happened. As we are on our way to the next camp there is no chance that we can return to see what will take advantage of this freely available carcass.

At 9 o’clock just before Batia Water Hole we find 3 cheetahs lighting in the grass – well camouflaged making photography difficult. This is just a record shot.

We continue on our way and find rhino, impala, kudu and a vulture on a nest.

We arrive at Halala at midday after visiting Goas which gives us a good show of elephants bathing and other species drinking.



The word ‘Halali” is a German word derived from a bugle call to signify that the hunt was over and that the quarry had been bagged.
In Etosha, this word signifies that the hunt is over for good and that it is time for conservation. In keeping with this theme, staff used to blow a bugle at Halali to warn tourists that it was nearly closing time for the gate.

Halali rest camp was opened in 1967 and the first resident ranger was artist, Zakkie Eloff.


After unpacking and settling in Erich and Wendy have a snooze while Earl and I go to the camp water hole. We see a few impala come down but nothing else exciting. We do, however, find some golden breasted buntings and violet eared waxbills but they are not very cooperative. This is the best I managed to get of two species together.

At 3:30 we go back to Goas. There is very little happening at first but then Wendy calls– here come the elephants. It is fascinating watching them come down all in a line. They come extremely close to the car parked in front of us and I think the occupants are quite nervous. A male comes to join the females but they ignore him and when they leave he does not follow. We feel sorry for the poor lonely guy – but this is the way it works with elephants!




There are interesting birds to watch too.
Red billed francolin

Double Banded Sandgrouse

Yellow-billed hornbill

We get back to camp with 8 minutes to spare before gate closing time. We go straight to the water hole and are delighted to find two black rhino drinking. We are there just in time as after 10 minutes they leave. Some zebra start to come down but change their minds – it might be because a tawny eagle is in their way or the coming and going of the sandgrouse might make them nervous. Sorry no pictures as better ones to come in future episodes.

At quarter past six we leave to get ready for dinner at the restaurant. Our neighbours come to ask if we have a torch as they've spotted a honey badger raiding the bins. This delays us a bit but we manage to get photos of the cheeky creature.

[puppy]

Friday 12 June 2015 Halali

We decide to have a rest day today. I get up first and out of the corner of my eye spot a ‘dog’ darting past the window. Of course it was not a dog but a honey badger. I dash out with my camera but the light is still not good enough. The badger is having fun. He rolls and does head-over-heals and darts about doing his morning exercise. I watch in fascination and then he runs toward the exit gate having had enough fun scavenging in the bins of Halali for one night!
Our chalet attendant comes early and lets me take a photo. I just love her outfit

Breakfast is first on our Agenda and after that we head out for our morning drive.

It is very dry in Etosha at present, yet there is plenty of game about in the form of giraffe, zebra, elephant, springbok, impala, gemsbok and kudu.





We are also see the Northern Black Korhaan.



In the afternoon we spend some time at the pool. Earl has a nap but Erich, Wendy and I order a take away lunch – chicken patty, salad and chips. It takes an hour before it is delivered to us but it is really good. Before Erich arrives at the pool Wendy and I try to move a lounge into the shade but they are rather heavy. A young man comes over to offer help – I am convinced that Wendy and I haven't lost our charm but she says – It's because we remind him of his granny and he couldn't let his granny do it on her own.

Oh well! Anyway there are two of these young men and they introduce themselves and chat to us – One is German the other Chilean. Later an Alaskan joins them and it is fun learning that they’d met each other in Windhoek and are now travelling together. The young Chilean is an airline pilot who has taken a year off to travel. The German is a musician and the Alaskan has some sort of trade and is working his way around the world.

After our swim and lunch, Earl wakes up and joins us for a bit at the pool. We then go to the waterhole and after enjoying that for a bit we go back to the chalet to braai.
Two big guys come down to share a drink

And are soon joined by some more of their mates.


They are not happy with the intruding stripy gang.

At first the gang are nervous but then ignore the bullies and settle down for a leisurely drink.

Who do these pyjama chaps think they are?!

Just ignore the bullies, Boys.





What do you guys think we should do about the PJ Donkeys?

Oh let's just have a drink!

In the evening we enjoy a braai at our chalet

[puppy]

Sorry, just running to catch up! Lovely variety of creatures, even a dik-dik. Must be great to see so many black rhino! All the accommodation in Etosha looks very well-kept.

Thanks for popping in, Flutterby.
The accommodation was very comfortable. Service was good too.

[puppy]

Naughty badger cruising around

Love the chalet attendant's outfit
Yes - very stylish

Northern Black Korhaan Never seen that model
Common in Etosha and Kgalagadi - time for a visit?

I see what you mean about the black rhino Fantastic sighting though
Etosha is the place to be if you want to see Blackies

[puppy]

Saturday 13 June 2015 Halali to Okaukuejo

By 7:00 a.m. we go off to have our last breakfast at Halali.

Earl forgets to refuel so we can't take the long route to Okaukuejo. We stop at a few waterholes but as we get nearer and nearer to Okaukeujo it became drier and drier.
Still we enjoy what we see, the highlight being a honey badger in its natural habitat and not scrounging in dustbins for tourists' left-overs.


A steenbokkie

A nice mix of creatures


We check in at reception at 9:00 but of course our rooms are not ready. However, we get our numbers and take a look at what facilities they have to offer. We are pleased to see there is a braai. So before going for a drive we shop for supplies. Luckily this shop is better stocked than the previous two camps. We get fresh tomatoes, lettuce, peppers, potatoes and onions. The meat on offer is ‘game’ but no mention of which animal. It looks good so we buy fillets and steaks and some sausage. We also indulge in an ice-cream treat, stow the goodies in the car fridge and set off for a our drive.

Okaukuejo Camp (formerly known as Okakwiju), meaning a woman who bore a child each year, stands at the western end of the famous Etosha Pan, about a half-hour drive from the Andersson Gate, the southern entrance into Etosha National Park. Okaukuejo officially opened for visitors in 1957, and is the oldest and largest of the three former government-run rest camps in Etosha. All three camps are now operated by the para-statal Namibia Wildlife Resorts.

We find some kudu



and a hidden jackal taking a nap

We return at 12:00 but the rooms will not be ready till 14:00 So we have a drink next to the pool. Erich and Earl climb the tower and then come back to tell us that they’ve spotted elephants and would we like to go for a short drive to find them. Of course we do – and we find them.


They are heading toward the camp waterhole and so we race back and sit there and wait. A springbok stands stock still staring into the distance and Wendy says, - I think he senses the ellies. Sure enough they appear at that moment, come down to drink and play and it is fun to watch.



We then check into our chalets

For the record: Bush chalets are either two bedroom (4 beds) and one bathroom or one bedroom (two beds) one bathroom at Etosha. Halali and Okaukuejo have braai facilities. Halali provides crockery and cutlery – Okaukuejo does not. There is no stove or hot plate. There is a fridge in each unit. There is a kitchen with sink, kettle, cups and saucers and tea, coffee, sugar provided. Work space is limited. You need to bring your own pots, pans, chopping boards, braai kit etc.
Comfortable bedroom

Basic bathroom and loo

Small living area/kitchen



While I am waiting to get my keys from reception there is a man ahead of me in the queue. He asks if there is DSTV. “No sir, - no wifi – no TV – We have a waterhole with live animals”

“Oh no – I want to watch the rugby”

"The Springboks are here," I joke.

He is not amused.

We relax for the rest of the afternoon visiting the pool and the water hole and enjoy a great braai for supper.

[puppy]

Sunday 14 June 2015 Okaukuejo

We go out at 6:30 this morning and visit a couple of waterholes. There is not much except for the usual suspects. We see one elephant. It is good, though, to see that there are animals scattered about. We return at 8:30 for breakfast and then do our own thing for the rest of the day.

The beauty of being in Etosha is having the waterholes at each campsite - and they are really rewarding if you have the patience to sit silently and wait for the creatures to come to you.
Earl took some lovely piccies
Springbok drinking their bath water

Interspecies tolerance


But the elephant rules



Swimming and drinking



A tawny came looking for a snack too

Am I gorgeous or what

[puppy]

Monday 15 June 2015 Are there any Lions in Etosha?

Our six days in the park are stunning. We have marvellous encounters with elephant, zebra and giraffe. We see black rhino at the waterholes and the weather is fabulous. But hey where the hell are the lions? Certainly none cross our path. Okay, so we come to the parks for the birds and enjoy whatever happens to turn up - but this is the first time ever that we've visited a major park and not seen cats. Yes - we see Cheetah but they are half hidden and boring. And when you have overseas guests you want to impress them with the king of the African Bush for Goodness sake. So it was with a slight feeling of disappointment that we exit Okaukuejo Gate for the last stretch to Anderson Gate and I say, Don't worry guys - we will probably get lions in Kgalagadi.
Then just minutes from the gate we see a few cars stopped up ahead. Wendy yells What's that?

Yes - what is that slipping through the bush?

The Aussies are thrilled and the Saffies relieved - Thank Goodness we found the Royal Family!
We see a mother and an older sibling and three cubs. They flop down in different places to rest.

We have a good view of the cubs.



We spend 20 minutes watching them get up and wander and return to the comfort of their spot. we reluctantly bid them farewell and continue happily on our way to our next destination.
Good bye Etosha and thank you for delivering at the last minute!


I am posting this now as hope it is not lost as I am having trouble with the network and keep losing my drafts!