Central Kalahari & Okavango Delta, July 2013 *

[iNdlovu]

Out of the corner of my eye I detect movement about 20 meters from the Landy and the king enters the scene


as he quietly plods passed, the game take off. It is obvious that this is exactly what he expects having experienced it a million times before. He just keeps on plodding, the lure of water more important than the thought of food.



He stops and looks over his shoulder, emitting a quiet growl and then stoops to drink

[iNdlovu]

His thirst suitably quenched, he meanders around for a while then marks his territory.



Something draws his attention on the approach road and he quickly moves in that direction


His partner in crime has arrived


The greetings are exchanged and they both move back towards the waterhole



Where the older of the two decides it's time to get a few rays


After which the two move back the way they came from


We take a leaf out of their book and head back to camp for an eagerly awaited very late breakfast.

[iNdlovu]

You're all very kind to a very amateur photographer, but thanks for the comments.

After a good feast it seems the hectic drive to get to this place in addition to probably a few too many have taken their toll. the normal thing to do under these circumstances is done with great enthusiasm by the members of the Playpen




whilst the guys in the Pensioners Wagon, being young and full of energy searched the surrounding area for interesting forms of wild life or gave a tribute to Madiba, performing his "Madiba Shuffle" with much gusto.



By the time the sleepers wake up, the sun is getting lower on the western horizon, so we jump in the vehicles and head back to the waterhole to see if there are any other patrons.
The usual crowd of Springbok, Gemsbok, the odd Wildebees and Giraffe are partaking of the life giving substance as well as many of these colorful chaps


I hear some scratching in the ground next to the car and our old buddy is back, munching on something, but not in the least bit worried about our close proximity.

[Richprins]

I think the old folk know that you feel like death awakening from a siesta after a few...

Better to stick it out!


Ghastly Madiba shuffle pic....nightmare stuff!

[iNdlovu]

The CKGR is such a huge place, there is very little point in going on long game drives, animals are just too spread out and in the dry season, few and far between. It makes much more sense to sit at one of the very few waterholes and let them come to you. The bigger lion prides split up into groups of 2 or 3 and most of the plains game move north to the Boteti River where the Delta waters reach in late July/August.
When the rains start up again the game moves back and the prides join up to feast on the new abundance of green grasses, water a-plenty and meat on the hoof.
This year has been particularly dry up there with the last rainfall in mid-January.

Having said all that, the sense of wilderness, wide open spaces, views for ever and very few people is what the CKGR is all about. A truly unbelievable place.
If you can, go there now. There is talk that the Bots Gov is going to allow the opening of various lodges in the place.

[iNdlovu]

Tonight's supper is a specialty put together by Ryan and Jacques. A delectable dish of Galhina de Moljo or better known as Chicken pootjie in coconut milk on a bed of rice served with garlic potbrood and fresh butter. Most food tastes great in the bush, but this was really special.

Time flies when you're having fun and the fun was in the form of fines meeted out for stupid behaviour. Something like the Darwin Awards. Nobody dodges the bullet including yours truly who was fined for once again entering a spoegdroll competition and succeeding in spitting my top teeth further than the Springbok pellet.

Before we knew it it was late, a brisk wind had picked up causing sparks to blow around from the fire. The only thing to do in the interests of safety was to put the fire out and retire for the night. The only problem with this is that as usual I was the first one up the next morning and had to start the fire from scratch to get coffee on the boil.

Another beautiful sunrise this morning but a definite cold breeze makes it a bit harder to crawl out of the sleeping bag. The promise of things unknown, makes it possible and I manage to roust the sleepers before too long, banging the kettle helps. I get a few calls for cold water to parch some dry throats,but they have to come and get it.
Whilst getting the fire going, I discover this in our camp.


The only visitor I saw during the night was this chap,


I hope the fellow that left the spoor wasn't around at the same time whilst I was engrossed in getting the Jackals' pic

We climb aboard the vehicles and instead of heading straight for the waterhole, we, in the Landy set off on a loop road drive, just to check things out. A few other early risers are up and about



Across the pan, I notice a large herd of Springbok stampeding in the direction of the waterhole. The problem is that they don't look they are being chased by a lion, simply because they don't stop, but keep up this wild stampede for a long distance. I tell the passengers to hang on and we dash off in that direction...low and behold, just what I suspected.



The painted dogs mill around for a while and we stay with them, but eventually they head off in a direction south of our camp, so we head for the waterhole again. Not much to report from here other than the usual Springbok, Gemsbok, Wildebees & Giraffe, even "the one always busy going nowhere" doesn't visit today.
I hear a few mumblings about breakfast and don't need much persuasion to head back to camp for a scrambled egg, spicy tomato, and bacon feast.
Sorry RP..no pics

[iNdlovu]

Sorry that I have left this TT quiet for a while, but work pressures have been mighty.
OK, so where were we?
Oh Ja, breakfast and a round of golf.
They say necessity is the mother of invention and so it proves correct. Our hunger produces an awesome breakfast, with everyone chipping in, much to the annoyance of the scheduled chefs, but the result is wholesome and sufficient. With all the interference this operation takes a while and the meal should best be described as a late lunch, not a bad idea, because then we can wash it down with a few cold ones, I'm sure I can hear the plane passing over. Ok, I know I'm being a bit derogatory about the effort and it's only because someone goes mad with the Tabasco bottle and as RP, Sprocs & Leachie can attest to, I swet from tomato sauce.

So, the fire storm behind us, we proceed to wash dishes etc only to find a leak in the plumbing system of the trailer. Water is precious and the guys decide that the last drop disappearing into the sand could have been the one that would have kept someone alive. Scary thought so someone rushes to the fridge to get a round of beers.
The tools come out and things look like they will turn into a major catastrophe with 10 guys trying to assist. Eventually I chase them all away and hand the important job over to two reasonably competent individuals and one supervisor to keep them alert and on their toes by irritating them. Isn't that what bosses do?


Now I need to keep the rest out of the way. Fortunately one of them has discovered a bag of marbles belonging to his son which had been left in the tent. I have my doubts about getting this group to play marbles, but with this lot of imbeciles, it might just work. And then..........
a natural born leader arises from their midst. "Hey guys, how about a game of golf?" They all charge off after the head sheep to design a golf course around the perimeter of the camp. This is getting scary, but you would understand only if you had been there.

The plumbing fixed, we've saved all our lives, no more water dripping into the parched earth, the four of us go to see what is happening on the golf course. A tournament is on the go, complete with prizes and due seriousness. I scan the surrounding bush for predators because these guys wouldn't know it if an elephant stood on them, they are so caught up in the competition. Not that there are ellies in CKGR at this time of the year, but just saying.





The eventual winner proudly climbs onto the podium to receive his prize, a bitterly cold Lion Larger and the rest of us stampede to claim a similar prize for allowing him to win.


Today is wash day and now that the plumbing has been fixed we can enjoy without worrying about living or dying. The smelliest ones go first while the boys from the boiler room keep the water hot and the drain cleared, oh and don't forget the head of cencorship was there too. What a pleasure, glee written all over shiny clean cheeks, they're almost as happy as when they found the marbles.





Squeaky clean, we climb into the vehicles and head back to the waterhole to see if any new critters have become thirsty through the hot day.

[iNdlovu]

Nothing new to report from the waterhole except the usual collection of Springbok, Gemsbok, Kudu, Wildebees, Giraffe and a million white fronted sparrow weavers dotted with the odd splash of crimson from the red chested shrike (for you RP). We sit for an hour or so waiting for something new, by this time my stock of cigarettes is finished, kaput, fenito. This could be serious and there's no elephant droppings to be found Oh well, nothing to do but head back to camp before the sun disappears.

Tonight promises to serve up a feast fit for kings. I know, because I have seen the menu, but a surprise for the others. We pile a few logs on the fire as the sun sets and the sky turns to that beautiful shade of pink, a drink in hand with snacks being passed around the fire. Biltong, dry wors, chips, does it get any better? I think not. The world slows down and the sounds change. Birds have gone to roost. Suddenly the haunting call of a jackal floats across the pan, answered by another behind our camp. Even the insects are silent, possibly reflecting back on the perfect day as the stars pop out in their millions.The jackals call, almost like a signal, silences the group around the fire as well, as each man stares into the flickering flames, a variety of thoughts passing through their minds, but certainly all at peace. The smell of woodsmoke from our clean fire fills the air and with the fast fading light a thin whisping of Africa's dust creates a see through curtain which falls over the scene. Perfect silence, calm.
A distant moan followed by a few coughs floats through the dark from the direction of the waterhole, it is the end of the day's pause. Each head looks up from the fire knowingly glancing at their neighbors, the king is on the prowl. Glasses and cans are emptied and the chefs for the day rise to work their magic.
Hot coals are set aside to roast their offering, a juicy tender whole marinated fillet, stuffed with mushrooms, muscles, spinach and Bree cheese. Potatoes in foil on the coals and two whole butternuts filled with a white cheese sauce cook slowly on the periphery. Although different discussions float over the fire, they are almost in a whisper as whiskey over ice or suitably chilled wine is sipped, every taste savored and enjoyed.
There is a different mood in camp tonight, one of quiet reflection, the boisterous camaraderie of the day gone with the sun. Some thoughts are shared almost in a whisper as each man focuses on the wonders around him. Previously we knew each other, but this night forms a brotherhood, unbreakable, that can only be formed amongst men around a perfect camp fire.

[Heksie]

Jis Indy all I can say is that I wish I was there that night Your words take me to a place and time I want to be...
And how was the previous episode with the wishy washy of white old bums -O
Had also a lekker laugh about your golf tournament -O Just imagining grown-ups playing with marbles Just shows what too much sun and alcohol can do to men

[iNdlovu]

Ja Heksie we never grow up, but sometimes we can be deep and sensitive. Places like that do it to you.
Glad you enjoyed, I have purposefully left out photos, I want you all to feel it, digest it, and may we never ruin what few perfect wild places we have left.

These guys are all crazies RP and I wouldn't put it passed anyone of them to put on a dress and play golf.