Africa Wild

But as we had to leave tomorrow for Satara we wanted to say good-bye to the area here a bit and decided to drive a bit along the S1 until it was time again to turn around.

The first sighting that we had was the passing of an impatient woman hooting at us because we were driving for her liking far too slooooooow. Only around the next corner it was us smiling back at her calmly because she right away drove into a speed trap and had been stopped by the police.

As already supposed it was a quiet evening drive and even it was a Friday evening it was also carwise extreme quiet but we simply had to stop for another green backed heron which came along



and it turned out to be a relative to the one we saw close to Biyamiti as same turned also out to be a comedian.



Back in camp Timon already lit the braai and decided to do some running in camp until the glow might be ready whilst I enjoyed my magical half an hour on the verandah until it was too dark to spot something and I so much hoped that the family of banded mongoose might return as I wanted to hear their cute squeaking once again but here I had no luck but I noticed a never seen bird. Originally I thought it was a falcon which was attacking permanently the sprinkler on the grass and so I positioned myself with the heavy lens on the bench and tried to take some pictures but due to the bad light under the shady trees and due to the heaviness of the lens I struggled too much and most of the pictures came out blurred but on one it was easily recognized as a juvenile African goshawk.



It was already pitch dark until our braai was ready and whilst Timon was enjoying a huge T-bone steak I put my half pizza from yesterday on the braai not thinking that same might still taste that good as yesterday but I was wrong same tasted fantastic from the braai and so we sat still a long time outside and enjoyed the evening.

Saturday, 16th February, 2013 – Skukuza – Satara

We awoke with the feeling that not only our stay in Skukuza but also our holiday was already half way over and so we packed up hastily not too miss that much and not be at the gate too late. As the route to Satara is not that long we decided to once again give the S65 another try but as already experienced the previous days it was a quiet morning for us on that road.

Although before we even could turn into that road we had stop as also a couple of other cars too because two elephants bulls were not sure whether they should be happy about the presence of each other and as they stood on both sides of the road we and also not the other cars dare to pass.



After quite a while the sun meanwhile came up the one decided to join the other and both finally walked away together into the bush.

As already said the whole remaining drive was dead quiet and we even did not see a bird and after a short break at Skukuza we were on our way North but simply had been held up in another road block as on the crossing which leads to the causeway a troop of baboons had taken over nearly the whole road and were about to criss-cross same.



It was very difficult to capture especially the little ones as they were running speedyly around trying to find someone to fool around with.



Although it was only 07.30 o’clock in the morning it was already in the sun extreme hot and compared to the previous days the day might turn into a typical South African summer day with temperatures up to 38 degrees and so we already thought that due to the heat we might not see that much today but we were totally wrong.

First stop was once again on the causeway and as meanwhile all the rushers might have been on their way already we once again stopped at the bulges and simply enjoyed the morning atmosphere. A curious crocodile swam closer and an African pied wagtail said “hi” as well.



A hippo emerged from the water soundlessly and with the morning sun coming from the back



and together with the water / air mixture whilst the hippo breathed out it was a very special atmosphere.



The hamerkop couple was still a bit sleepy whilst we arrived



but a bit later one of them got up and did some stretching and grooming and it looked as if we did find them somewhere on a beach.



White and black feathered fluff balls could also be spotted one of them was a victim of the wind because it’s feathered looked a bit tousled.



Today we in all spotted three of them 2 males and one female



and one of them just caught one of the tiniest fish we ever saw. The water level was still high and lot of debris in form of stuck up branches and roots could be spotted and attracted a lot of birds which landed on them simply to rest or to be on the lookout for some breakfast.



But as we still had a long way to go we finally left with heavy hearts this stunning place.

Due to the road closures of the Southern part of the S36 and later on also the S33 and 34 completely there was indeed not much choice and we simply could only drive the H1-2. Although it was a Saturday traffic wise it was again quiet so we could stop for birds at our heart’s contents where we wanted and how long we wanted without causing in seconds a traffic jam and first stop was made for a large group of European bee eaters



landing on a bush and later flying away in flocks as the red-billed queleas always do.



These colourful cute fluff balls always steel our heart within seconds when they do come across.

to be continued with a mystery solved.....

A bit further down we have been made aware by another couple of the gorgeous klipspringer



far away on a rock.

Actually it was not only a rock it were indeed several rocks balancing on each other and on top the klipspringer was on the lookout.



I am still a bit puzzled how same made it on top without being hurt or even fell down. It could have been that his lady was also close by but we did not see her and whilst still capturing the klipspringer a very curious red-backed shrike landed on a bush close to where we parked and with a “click” we got him too.



Next stop was a visit at Leeupan although this year unfortunately all the birdies were too far away as due to the rainfalls Leeupan turned into a huge lake covered nearly completely by water lilies and so the birds on the water could be hardly spotted. In the dead tree we nevertheless realized a couple of cattle egrets and a pair of Egyptian goose but the cheeky European bee eaters entertained us quite a lot at the spot where we parked.





and in a close by thorny bush another red-backed shrike could be admired.



Then I noticed that one after another white backed vultures landed on the ground somewhere in the dense vegetation and I watched a bit sharper and even was sure that I saw a shadow but as soon as I noticed the shadow same was again gone so I did not tell Timon something only: “I am not quite sure” not that he stayed under the impression that I started to hallucinate because of the heat.....but people in another car stopped as well and suddenly a quite impressive lioness emerged from the bush but far too far away for some good pictures.



Same must had fed on the remains of a kill as the vultures landed close to that spot. At least for me another mystery has been solved as I now can say that there are definitely lions (at least one!) at Leeupan.



The sighting of the lioness got around quite soon between the passengers in all the cars spread all over Leeupan and soon a quite large column of cars one after the other tried to spot the lioness which for us was quite funny to watch. We also stayed a bit longer – the other cars meanwhile disappeared again as the lioness did not show up again – but we also had no luck so we left as well.

Shortly before we reached Tshokwane I got my daily giraffe fix as out of nowhere a giraffe invasion took place



and although most of them were far too very well hidden in the dense bush some nice “feeding” pictures could be captured.



The shop at Tshokwane still was closed but at least the toilets could be used and after a short look at the sighting board we realized the many “cat” pins around Satara which was indeed very promising. Further down a lovely tawny invited us to stop for a quick snap



Mazithi was filled up with water and we never saw that dam so full. When we arrived a grey heron abused a hippo as island but as soon as Timon had the camera ready same flew away right in the second whilst Timon was about to click.

Nevertheless we parked and looked around and after quite a while a group of waterbucks appeared on the scene in front two beautiful ladies



followed by an impressive male.



A cute spotted fly catcher forced Timon to stop again



and same was so relaxed that we were allowed to press the button quite a few times.



Kumana was also unbelievable full and although last year we thought already that same reached its maximum that was nothing compared to the water masses this year.

Due to the high water level the birds were far away to at least identify via binoculars the specie but nearly at the end where we never saw water the previous years the shore was closer and soon a couple of birds came across, the start was made by a grey heron,



a group of Egyptian goose was a bit noisy and a beautiful saddle-billed stork just landed close to our parking spot



and he immediately started to pace up and down the shore in order to find something eatable. Patiently we watched how he walked nearly around the whole bank until someone gave him a clearance for take off and off he was.



to be continued with a good old friend.....

It was meanwhile close to noon and it started to get hotter and hotter and that did not prevent the birdies from paying us a visit along our way further North to Satara. We already noticed large numbers of Carmine bee eaters nearly all the day but finally same sat still and allowed us to photograph them



and also a grey hornbill in a bush – Looked like a juvenile – waiting that the parents might show up to bring some food.



Normally we always drive the S125 and back via the S126 but a force from above or a feeling in my stomach told us to stay on the tar road as on top I wanted under all circumstances pay a visit at Nkaya pan this year as I cannot remember having ever visited this place earlier.

But before we even reached same a quite impressive elephant bull still a bit far away made us stop again to be precise an elephant with a single wide spread tusk



who looked quite familiar to me but I only know one elephant with such remarkable tusks and this is Shibotwana so this could not be him.



At the beginning of the sighting he was still a bit far away but whilst feeding from the grass here and there he soon came closer and allowed some great shots



and whilst coming closer the ears got better visible and due to the hole in the left ear and a couple of notches in the right one I realized that I had the honour in seeing this impressive bull now for the fourth time in four different years. It was for sure Shibotwana but unfortunately his right tusk is meanwhile history.



The first time we met him he was quite aggressive and was roughing up an elephant herd and was chasing a couple of cars at Shibotwana waterhole.



The second time was in 2011 where we met him right in front of the Satara camp gate where he was in a neighbouring dispute with a smaller and younger bull about the belongings of fallen marulas, last year we crossed path with him on the Mananga trail where he was once again showing an elephant herd who the real boss is



and today he was a calm and very relaxed bull whose only interest existed in feeding and due to his calmness we allowed him to come closer until he no longer fit into the frame and although it may looked as if we were eye in eye with him our safety distance to him was guaranteed. After Timon took around hundred of pictures we left him and waved good bye with a possible reunion maybe next year.

On our way to Nkaya pan we spotted on the road two crested francolins



and although very much overgrown Nkaya pan was lovely and as the pan itself was not that large as the just visited Leeupan or Kumana lots of birds in an acceptable distance could be spotted but first the two resident hippos had to take a look.



It would have been a great motive if one of them was wearing some of the green on its head but this was today wishful thinking.



A pity was that a group of hadeda ibises was busy in feeding and none of them even raised its head for a picture but a beautiful black crake appeared between the long grass on the search for food.



Another grey heron could be spotted and was it in the South the sightings of green-backed herons in the central part of the park up to now the grey herons predominated. Out of the dense vegetation suddenly three waterbuck ladies arrived to quench their thirst at the pan



and on their coat-tails a lone wildebeest.



We really enjoyed this peaceful spot and the whole time we parked here we were alone and with some cookies we carried on observing the surroundings. The waterbuck ladies were extreme alert and each of them looked into a different direction to scan the area and only one of them drank whilst the other two were still on the look out.



After a relaxing half an hour we left this lovely spot but had to stop not far on the tar road as a traffic jam had build up. We looked into the direction all the people were watching but what to say did not see anything. The car close to us was about to leave and explained to us the exact direction where to look and suddenly I got a big grin on my face realizing at what I was looking – cheetahs!!!



All in all we have been told that same is a group of five but we only had the honour in at least seeing one a bit better provided the high grass in that area and the wind blowing into it allowed that



as nearly in turn either the cheetah head was blurred and the grass was sharp or the other way round.

to be continued with a very special dinner guest......

Hi Pumbaa & Timon.

Always great to catch up with an "old friend"

Nice Cheetah sighting.

Have another look at your Crake pic. I think it's a Lesser Moorhen, a difficult bird to find in Kruger. Do you have any other pics of it? (Look at the amount of yellow in the bill compared to the red shield on top).

Dewi wrote:Hi Pumbaa & Timon.

Always great to catch up with an "old friend"

Nice Cheetah sighting.

Have another look at your Crake pic. I think it's a Lesser Moorhen, a difficult bird to find in Kruger. Do you have any other pics of it? (Look at the amount of yellow in the bill compared to the red shield on top).

You might be right with the Lesser moorhen - The feet look yellow as well - Always glad to learn more about your birdies and to find new species. Here is another picture Unfortunately as often the grass was blowing into the Picture when pressing the button

We indeed do not have something against dense vegetation in contrary it is always great to watch around and see only green but at such sightings I sometimes wish that the grass was a bit shorter as exactly in that area the grass was high as the cheetah itself but cheetahs are cheetahs.



Originally we thought that they might come closer but the contrary was fact as they started to move into the other direction and from time to time we could even realize dimly two other cheetahs close to the one which was reasonably visible.



Whilst I was looking through the binoculars I always explained and pointed to Timon were to focus and so within only a couple of minutes – exactly five as this was how long this sighting lasted – Timon tried to photograph as much as possible not knowing due to the distance as besides the high grass the distance where the cheetahs were sitting was incredibly far if even a couple of pictures might come out usable



but as you see the yield was not that bad although the sighting was for our liking far too short but as it was meanwhile nearly 2 o’clock we originally thought we might not see much at that time of the day and although we stayed a bit longer until also the last spot was invisible the cheetahs disappeared now completely.

Already quite impressed by the sightings we had that day we were still extreme curious what might the next days bring as the area around Satara is indeed a good terrain for everything. This year we were rewarded with bungalow G178 which is the second last from the back and soon I started to remember KDU told me once in a post that between the bungalows in that area a wild cat could be seen so I was a bit excited that maybe we will also have the luck in seeing same during one of the next days but before we even could move in I made Timon aware of a cute fluffy sleeping beauty close to a dust bin



which was indeed not a nice sleeping place for the little scopsie as the branch on which same was sleeping was nearly on eye level for everybody and consequently soon a crowd had build up and I was certain that the scops owl will chose tomorrow another sleeping place with a bit more privacy!



The location of our new home was stunning and although a bit farer away from the fence than in the beginning of the G circle you still had a view into the green with the large and beautiful trees and the birdies all around out of which the noisy woodland kingfisher - one started to trrrp-trrrrrrr and then even a chorus answered with trrrp-trrrrrrrr – needless to say that I miss this call desperately. We did feel very well as we normally always do when staying in Satara although on a Saturday nearly each bungalow in the G circle was occupied.

For our afternoon drive we decided to drive down the S100, however, the last years also after a good and wet rainy January / February we could not trace that much animal activity in the beginning of that road until Shibotwana and so we did not expect that much and we were not wrong again. We had to drive quite a few kilometres into that road until the first herd of elephants, wildebeests and impalas came across.





Later on also warthogs and waterbucks joined in



and on top due to the cloudy weather and the late hour already the light changed permanently from nearly dark – when a cloud was hiding the sun – and golden so the photography was a bit tricky that afternoon.



On top of a tree a group of grey louries was plotting something and eyed into our car already suspiciously.



The wind blew strongly from the back and the noisy bird presented us a fancy stormhairdress



at least we had now a good laugh whilst downloading the pictures later that evening.



to be continued with the promised dinner guest.......

A lot of sentinels now again in the best light could be found



and also one of the cheeky woodland kingfishers.



We already turned around as otherwise we would not have made it back in time and met once again all the herds we already saw earlier whilst driving down that road but gladly the elephants came close and between them lots of little ones could be admired as well





and Mom was always on the look out for the little ones.



As we already stocked up with vegetables, fruits and meat at Skukuza no need to visit the shop this evening and so Timon lit already the braai and went inside to start the downloading process and whilst I was busy scanning the area with binoculars I nearly fell from the chair when I saw a large, and he was definitely large, honey badger on the first step of our verandah. I shouted to Timon at least if you can shout silently to come out quickly with the camera we have got a visitor.

Needless to say that the honey badger ran away but was still visible running between all the other bungalow excitedly and soon also all the other people in camp realized the honey badger and soon a crowd of people armed with cameras followed the honey badger and that indeed was a funny sighting as well to end the day with.





I stayed close to our bungalow and watched the whole ado about the honey badger whilst having a ball. The woman from our neighbour bungalow joint me and told me that same is coming nearly each evening at nearly the same time. It looks, however, that same had been fed by people although when coming too close to the honey badger it started to hiss warningly.



The crowd running behind the honey badger dissolved the minute same disappeared and some very happy people returned to their bungalows and let the fire go in the meanwhile fading light.

We also had a lovely dinner on our verandah thinking back how the day started that slow and turned into a very successful one and we started to presume what might come across the next days and with a grin on our faces we soon went into dreamland.

Sunday, 17. February, 2013 – Satara

To awake once again in Satara is always something very special to us and always one of the highlights of our trips although we had already stays there were the cats kept totally hidden the whole time during our stay so definitely you never know what might come across the next corner but I think this is always valid for the whole time whilst in Kruger. So with no great expectations we decided to drive as first morning drive the S100 and then decide later where to went next depending on sightings. Gladly carwise we took the right decision as most of the cars in front of us turned into other directions so we nearly had the S100 all to ourselves at that early morning time.

As already experienced yesterday evening until Shibotwana we saw nothing not even a birdie and at the waterhole itself lots of zebra,



wildebeest and impala herds mixed together



were populating that area and after we spent quite a while with them continued our journey with again not much to be seen until we suddenly and this was reality whilst driving around a corner saw two cars on each side of the road standing and directly in the middle we spotted a sleeping beauty



and also our as well as a couple of cars close on our heels could not wake her up - She was deep sleeping in dreamland - she only raised her head to look out for her companion who was not lying far away from her but nearly hidden between flowers and high grass.



The crowd must had followed us as soon we were surrounded by cars and neither could move forward nor backward but with nearly pole position with sight onto the sleeping lioness we anyway had no intention to leave that sighting.





Now she was awake at least for the moment and checked with a glance out of her beautiful brown eyes what the fuss around her has to mean on an early Sunday morning and soon she squinted one eye and the other followed nearly immediately.





And even the head was attracted by force of gravity and found its way back to the ground so the beauty sleep could continue





and time for us to have a closer look to the other lion which up to now also did not move anything besides his head.



More and more cars meanwhile arrived from the back and the inpatient hooting started as the latest cars in the row could not see nothing but the cars in front of us did not want to chase the lions away and also us and the others which had still a good view onto them could not move a single centimeter so a couple of the latecomers simply drove into the veld and overtook from there not knowing if there might be a deep ditch and even the lioness in the road shook reproachfully her head about such a rudeness behaviour.



to be continued......

After only one click of the passengers in all the cars which decided to follow the first one into the veld the quietness came back and the interrupted sleep could be continued.







Time also for us to grant our fingers and arms a pause and to sip the last drops of our nearly lukewarm coffee



and also the lioness went back into the obligatory daydreaming modus





whereas her companion was nearly the whole time this sighting already lasted stoically looking into one direction sometimes with shut eyes and sometimes with open eyes but still with elevated head - a majestic gesture already at that young age!



and even a bit snootily - simply the way a future King might to represent himself



whereas the lioness was still blocking the road and did not let somebody pass - Obviously they know already how to let people dance to their tunes







At least the younger male watched his princess now with a bit more alertness



although her favourite aim this early - and even sunny morning - was to sleep as deep and as long as possible





and even the upcoming sun must have disturbed her finally as she was now hiding her eyes behind her paw



and now it was only a short question of time until she might clear the road and joined her companion or even more lions which, however, stayed invisible for us!



As soon as the lioness finally stood up and trotted closer to her companion in the high grass, engines started and soon the traffic jam cleared up and we were nearly the only car still left so we allowed ourselves a couple of portraits with meanwhile glowing fingers because of the permanent clicks.



Both lions meanwhile lied down a bit farer away from the road into the wet and high grass but still were extreme good visible so some latecomers would still have the honour in having a great time with them





but as we took meanwhile enough pictures we waved a final good bye to them. Finally we found again lions whilst staying at Satara and they even occurred on the S100 which is not always the case!

We then decided to drive the S41 until N’wanetsi picnic spot and then drive back the way we just came and back via the S90 but it came totally different. On one of the low water bridges where we love to stay and watch the surroundings we discovered after only a while because they are always so very well camouflaged a group of water dikkops



and then the usual suspect appeared on the scene such as plenty of waterbucks which we do always find in masses in the Satara area,



a Wahlberg’s eagle and for sure zebras and here the youngster always do entertain us,



especially when posing together with Mom.



to be continued with the rest of that stunning morning drive.......

After a short break at N’wanetsi we knocked our planned route on the head as we heard about a sighting of lion cubs right at the beginning of the H6 so we headed that way but needless to say that the cubs meanwhile disappeared when we arrived at the indicated place where to look for them but we got to see more of the locals and saw many giraffes,



more zebras



and my relatives!



We made another pit stop at Satara and as it was still far too early to stay for the rest of the morning until our afternoon drive in camp we now did the planned route, however, the other way round and from that day and the following days onwards the S90 got more and more our favourite road in that area at least for this year......and although it was already getting late and hotter we had some nice sightings that late morning and compared to the S100 there was always something to be seen. First came along an elephant bull



followed by more and even a herd



and they were even not shy and aggressive and allowed us some nice close up shots.



Further down the road the area was teeming with animals and lot of zebra and wildebeest herds were worth to stop for some pictures.



All of them were either resting or munching and obviously were simply happy to be alive





and on top lots of youngsters were running around and having fun.





There was even a black backed jackal to be admired which was looking the whole time observantly on to the other side of the road





followed by a kori bustard and this was definitely the road where we saw that many of them as never before



or it were always the same?.......

More birdies could also be found especially lots of Carmine bee eaters and this one got by mistake onto the picture together with the kori



and also the red-backed shrikes were roaming this road in hords – This one could be captured still with its breakfast.



We really had problems in deciding where to look first as now a large group of kudus was resting under a bush close to the road.



Finally we reached the turnoff into the S 41 but the sightings continued. On nearly each bush an European roller could be found only waiting that some of the creeping crawlers on their menu could be spotted on the road and it really did not take long until one caught a large grasshopper and swallowed same with pleasure.



A bit further down the road we suddenly had to stop again as we spotted a large group of resting waterbucks, all males, and due to the high grass we sometimes could only identify part of their horns but overall it must have been around 20! Some of them squeezed under a small bush or tree and nearly kept hidden the whole time



and whilst we were still busy in counting them I scanned the area around them and soon discovered a pair of saddle-billed storks building a nest in a remarkable tree – WoW I was thrilled with such a sighting and although we already saw many of them during our previous trips but never a couple building a nest.



to be continued..........

The male even flew down and was now raiding the grass close to where we parked right in the middle of the waterbuck group in order to find something usable for the nest.



She was meanwhile busy in putting everything at its right place and finally settled down – Gladly to hear that they indeed were successful in raising some fluff balls as Katy in her report posted a picture of the nest with the little ones.



A wildebeest was now also coming closer and joined the waterbuck group out of which some meanwhile stood up and started munching and whilst we were busy in watching from the saddle-billed storks to the waterbucks and then back again we spotted two secretary birds on the other side of the road.



WoW – That sighting nearly topped the saddle-billed storks because secretary birds are a rare sighting for us in Kruger and we only had the honour in seeing them only twice so far there!



It was, however, not easy to capture them as they were nearly the whole time on the run and either one of them was hidden by a bush or grass when we were about to press the button then the one we just focussed was hidden and the other one was posing nicely and so it carried on



as they were permanently on the move and they could even run extreme fast and we had troubles in following them. We already thought that the sighting was over but then they returned via another bush and even came a bit closer.



What a fantastic day so far we had and nearly the whole drive on the S90/41 we in fact had the honour in meeting only a handful of other cars so nobody was chasing any animals away and we had also enough time in stopping excessively for our feathered friends although it was a Sunday!

We even still had a lot of time in examine more wildebeests, zebras and carmine bee eaters



and captured some impalas as a large herd was nearly blocking the whole road and some of them could not decide



on which side of the road the grass or leaves might taste better but with their indecision we had plenty of time in being part of their herd and smelling them and hear them barking.





The whole morning is was nice weather with a bit sunshine and clouds and it was not that hot and really pleasantly so maybe this was also one reason why we saw that much on that day. At Guzani dam which we never saw that full as this year we enjoyed the silence as long as the hippos kept quiet and finally we drove back once again via the S100 where our lions from early morning could not be spotted any longer and compared to the just driven S90 and S41 this road was deadly silent besides a group of waterbucks with some little ones between them



and they even allowed some nice mother and youngster picture



and with that sighting we named this road from now on the “waterbuck” road as you either will see everything on that road or nothing but you can always rely on the waterbucks as they will always be there!

Finally it was time to relax a bit in camp and whilst doing so my trrrp-trrrrrrrrrr friend’s did start their concert again and needless to say that this was one of the best concerts in my life so far.

Meanwhile the sun chased the clouds completely away and it was a sunny and nice afternoon and we decided to see what might come across the S90 once again. The light was simply brilliant for photography and now only the animals had to show up – First we spotted a warthog mom with her piglets running in front of our car – a pity was that they did not turn around so we only got theirs bums.



One of the many present red backed shrikes did pose so nicely so Timon could not resist in taking another picture



and also a banana bird had already an early dinner and then the ostriches started their show



and they were indeed in good mood and allowed an excessive photo shooting – It was a group of five in total, 2 females, 2 males and one nearly grown chick





and they were very hungry



and some urgent things also had to be done.



After spending quite an entertaining time with them they walked away farer into the bush and for us it was time to explore that road once again a bit more.

One of the many or as already said maybe once again the same kori bustard showed up



and also an elephant bull came across



and another kori which was definitely not the same and far too far away for a picture!



to be continued with the naughty ones....and some never seen before........