Africa Wild

The Limpopo Transfrontier Park is an ambitious project that once completed could be the anchor for a tract of Wild land across the breadth of Southern Africa. So far we have Mozambique part of the reserve in the east, Kruger,and Makuya and Letaba Ranch in the west. There are no fences between Kruger and the above mentioned places, so game roams free. The natural divide between Makuya and Kruger is the Luvhuvhu River, which is easily fordable by all game.

The best way to get there from Nelspruit is to travel up to Hoetspruit, Gravelot, Tzaneen, Louis Trichardt, through the Verwoerd Tunnel and about 40 k's before Musina hang a right on the R525 and continue for 80 k's east, turning off at the mine and about 11 k's further you'll find the entrance gate. The best thing about Makuya is that you have to have a 4x4 and for this reason very few people go there. If you're looking for WILD, this is the place.

A group of 10 of us sat around a table at one of the local Nelspruit watering holes and decided that this trip was a must, although time was a problem, we had to squeeze it into our busy work schedules.

The date was set for Thursday 18th October 2012. The only problem was that I had meetings in Joburg on 15,16,17, so it would be a mad scramble for me to get back home at about 21:00 on the Wednesday, get the Landy loaded and ready to pick 3 other rascals up at 04:45 on Thursday morning. But hey, when a bush trip is involved, there's always a way.
My sweet SO assisted by buying my beer and groceries and my son got my fishing gear ready whilst I was in Jhb, so no big panic there.
Loading the Landy went well, it normally does with the excitement, and by 23:30 I was geared to go. Should I set my alarm? Naaah! I probably won't sleep well anyway.

Thursday 04:00
The built in alarm never fails, a quick shower and shave, and I quietly sneak out the door without waking the household, the day has arrived. I drive to one of the gangs house where the crew is waiting, we load their kit and on exactly the anticipated time of departure we get on the R40, Hoetspruit bound. As we crawl through Hazeview, we get a call on the cellphone from the other vehicle, a Hilux double cab, informing us that they are just leaving Nelspruit, the plan is to have a breakfast at the Wimpy in Hoetspruit where we will meet up. At exactly 06:50 we pull up at the Wimpy and wait for opening time which is 07:00. Oh well, nothing to do but grab a few ice cold beers out of the fridge in the back of the Landy. Oh boy, this will be a long day.

The rest of the gang arrive and we order breakfast. Apparently a fuse in the Hilux keeps popping on their fridge circuit, this could be disastrous for them, but with a lot of useless suggestions and hilarious comments I find a dead short in the wiring. We fix that in no time but now need to track down a shop where we can buy new fuses. After cruising around Hoetspruit we locate some fuses and we head for Gravelot. By the sounds of the chatter between various people in the 2 vehicles over the 2-way radios, I can tell, that their fridge is working well. As one of the drivers, I get fed Coke
We have plotted a short cut ( or so we think) and turn right onto a gravel road about 10 k's after Gravelot and the slip-sliding on muddy roads starts.
Aha, tarred road again, Giani slips past. Uh oh, is that traffic cop waiving me down, I wasn't speeding, the Landy can't go that fast. Just a normal vehicle inspection. I only have half a front license plate, the boerbulls thought it made a nice toy, so I get out in a hurry and stand in front of it whilst talking to the cop, "Where are you from, where are you going, may I see your license", all the usual stuff. "Enjoy your journey and drive safely". "Thank you officer, we will". Hah, she didn't notice. " oh and sir, please get a new license plate".
THE OFFENDING LICENCE PLATE


The lady on the GPS warns that our next turnoff is 2 k's ahead, a dirt track heading for what seems like nowhere. As a good pilot must, I trust my instruments and obey. The only problem with these bush tracks is that they tend to change over time, but we keep going never the less. At a few points the track disappears and we have to backtrack for a kilometer or two, to pick up the correct track again.
Soon, we stop to deflate tyres and stretch the legs, and from here on we engage 4 wheel drive, it's getting pretty rough and hot.
IT'S EASY TO LOOSE YOUR WAY ON TRACKS LIKE THESE


Huge Baobabs dot the landscape and birdlife is in abundance. Unfortunately I have to keep my eyes glued to the rough track, so miss 90% of them, a problem I must get used to over the next few days. After climbing many steep hills and swaying into deep valleys, the track gets better and we soon find the turnoff to the mine. This is where we meet up with the third vehicle in our convoy. We pull over in the shade of a huge baobab to meet and greet and I thirstely down a cold beer. This place is hot. Only a few more k's to the park gate.

Although the Landy carries 150 litres of diesel the other vehicles need to refuel, so I join the queue at the mine pumps and top up the tanks anyway, who knows how much driving we will have to do in the next few days. We purchase as much ice as we can get at the little shop and head for the gates, what a beautiful sight after 530 hard kilometers. The time is 14:30.

Thursday Cont.....

After booking in the gate, assisted by very efficient and friendly park staff (some SanParks people could take a few lessons) we proceeded along the 8 kilometer road to the camp. First animal spotted was an Nyala bull and his harem. There is a bit of hunting done in this park, so game is fairly skittish. Did I say it was hot? if so it was an understatement, it was killer hot. The plan was to quickly unpack the vehicles, get the food into the freezers and head out on a scouting trip to find where the good fishing holes were. Like I said it was hot so we stopped on the way to the camp to get a few more cold beers out of the vehicle fridges. Oh by the way, it's ok to get out of your vehicles anywhere in Makuya, they just don't recommend you walk around at night, the camp isn't fenced.

A REFRESHMENT STOP ON THE WAY TO CAMP


On eventually reaching the camp we were greeted by this site, what a beautiful place and the accommodation is superb. Everything is supplied, bedding, towels, cooking utensils, pots, plates, glasses and cutlery. Packaged soap and shampoo in the en suite bathrooms. The camp staff even came and helped us offload and carry the stuff to our tents and kitchen.

FIRST SIGHT OF THE ACCOMMODATION


I'll try to give you a description of the layout, with the help of a few pics. Each site consists of two - 2 bed tents, both with en suite shower, toilet and basin. The entrance of the tents face each other separated by a large covered wooden deck with a table and chairs. Leading off the one side of the deck is the kitchen with stove, fridge, freezer and sinks.




There is no electrickery here except for the camp generator which runs from 19:00 to 22:00, the appliances run on gas. There is a smallish rock pool in the centre of the camp, perfect for lazing away the heat.
And now for the absolutely incredible view from our wooden deck. Each morning, from just before sunrise, I sat here and watched elephant, buffalo, Impala, Kudu, Leopard,
lion, baboon come to the river to drink, whilst overhead raptors searched for the early morning air currents. I have a confession to make at this stage. In my rush to get the Landy packed, I forgot my camera, so here I sat in God's country trying to take all of these pics with my iPad. How dumb can I get

Finally we get things sorted in camp, vehicle fridges re-stocked with liquid refreshment and we set out to get acquainted with the river. Our first drive is in a southerly direction down an extremely steep and rocky track to the river's edge and we follow the course for about 5 k's. This however takes about an hour, the going is slow. We surprise 3 buffalo bulls along the way and eventually come across some rapids with a good looking pool below. A few of the more avid fisherman hastily grab rods and climb down the steep bank and attempt to lure the odd tiger fish out of the pool, whilst some of us keep watch from the bank, not wandering more than a meter from the fridges....it is hot Awesome Jackelberry trees spread shade, but there is no need to make a nature call to empty the beer we have consumed, sweat empties it faster than we can drink.



A sound from down river grabs my attention and on careful investigation I spot a herd of Ellies crossing the river from Kruger, about 8 cows, a magnificent bull and 3 calves, they're only about 80 metres from where we stand quietly watching. If they head our way, we'll sprint the 5 metres to our vehicles.....guess what, no camera. Some of the other guys had cameras and I will attempt to get pics from them and post them here later.

The ellies leave the river and slowly trudge over our track moving deeper into Makuya. By now the sun is low in the sky and we turn around to head back to camp. Looking up we see our camp on the edge of the cliff overlooking the river.

Thanks Toks, Mel, Amoli & Sprocs. This is a great place to go to. The whole time we were there, we never saw another person in the park except for a helicopter crew who were busy with a game count and stayed in the camp, but on the the far side away from our gang. The only problem is the heat at this time of the year and the driving is very rough and slow. Even after a short drive your body feels battered from driving over rocks all day. As the driver, you have to really concentrate and miss seeing most of the game

Looks great !
How much do they charge/night ?

R180 per person per night and R40 per person entry fee. (Once off).
No aircon, no fan RP, makes sleeping in the heat difficult. I'd certainly go back but definitely in the winter months.
There are no shops in the park, but there is a bottle store, a Spar and fuel at the mine, not too far away

Oops, sorry guys, I just realized I didn't finish this little TT. So here's some more.....
Thursday evening

Vehicles straining in 4 wheel drive and low range, the Landy always had to be the last vehicle in the convoy. I am the only person with a winch and so let the others dig up the trail, loosening rocks and digging up sand where it is available, we growled our way out of the river gorge and back to camp. Of course there is all kinds of talk of the big one that got away, but I didn't see anyone's rod even take a bump, so assume they are talking about the quart bottles of beer that vanished without any trouble.

An excellent swim in the camp pool followed by a hot shower and I'm ready at the fire pit, and offloading the fire wood we have picked up on the way. Once again this is one of those awesome nights sitting around the camp fire and listening to everyone telling stories in hushed tones, only interrupted by the night sounds of the wild.
For RP's benefit, the menu was rump steak, wors and chips









The Johnny Walker flowed like silk and eventually I make my way to the tent, crawl into bed, tucking the mosquito net in tight all around. The distant roar of a lion my lullaby.

Day break, Friday

Some of the gang played cards on the deck outside my tent until the wee small hours of the morning and weren't too quiet about it, so I had the most pleasurable time putting the coffee pot on the stove and clanging enamel coffee mugs together at 04:30 in the morning. I heard the odd mutter coming from the tents, but no sign of movement. Just as well because I pulled up a chair to the edge of the deck and enjoyed the early morning, just myself and the early risers of the animal kingdom.

The dull glow over my left shoulder viewed through gently moving leaves signaled the coming new day. Small birds darting back and forth amongst the bushes, oh so busy already. The bark of a baboon drew my attention down to the riverbank directly below my perch, his troop strung out whilst going about their scratching and gathering making their slow way to the water's edge. A lone hyena plodding through soft sand, kicking up puffs of dust under his loose ankled paws, only one thing on his mind, to quench his thirst. I started pondering on what his night must have been like, was he busy all night in search of a meal or was it a lazy one spent near the den.

Colours were turning from the obscure misty grey of early dawn, visibly being enhanced minute by minute, soft yet vivid, a lone Kudu bull head held proud sensing for danger, but all is peaceful under a pale blue and pink sky. This is how it has been for ever in this place, absolute perfection and I marvel at how privileged I am to be a minute observer to this scene. What is going on out there, what complex happenings are taking place in this intricate world spread before me.

I ponder on how man was once a part of it, but by choice and in ignorance left it to eek out an existence so far removed. Were we once just another species in this kingdom, in touch and in tune, our freedom assured. What have we done to ourselves and why are we so intent on destroying it all. What tears do we bring to the Creator's eye? More the fool - Man.

A feeling of longing fills my soul, but only a brief period of melancholy and then wonder, appreciation. It's as if the cares of my pressured existence flow away and I am left with a deep, soothing calm. Spiritually cleansed.

Intense? Yes, but it is a worthless attempt to describe what the wild places do for me. Oh that everyone could experience it and hold these wild places dearer than life.

Friday Contd.

Eventually a few sounds emanated from the tents, indicating that the party animals were stirring. By all indication this was going to be a scorcher of a day and I had thoughts of how lucky I was not to have to go through it with some of the hangovers that were evident. With quite a bit of encouragement on my part, we got going to do some exploring towards the north along the river.
It seems that anywhere you go there is a place called "World's View" and Makuya Reserve didn't disappoint. With large Baobabs creating a bit of shade the look out point on large rocks created the spot for some photographs and the coffee pot on the gas burner came in rather handy. Early morning coffee with rusks, in the wild is hard to beat.




Again we headed north along the river, it was very slow going but the 3 vehicles took it all in their stride.


Game was conspicuous by it's absence, although we did spot a few buffalo and Impala, I was occupied with the driving and didn't get the opportunity to take any pics.
By this time the heat was taking its toll and we were on the lookout for a spot of shade close to the river banks where those hardy individuals could try some fishing whilst the remainder of us took it easy over a skottel braai for lunch. The cold beer stocks were running low, the temperature in the shade registering 43 degrees C