Okavango - The Dutch Group *

[iNdlovu]

02:30, my head hurts. Some mates came around yesterday evening and we shared some rare steer on the braai and a few gallons of the gold stuff. But I have to get going, there's lots of miles to drive today, White River to Maun - Bots.
By Millies, I can't keep my eyes open so pull in and have an hour power nap in the back of the double cab. Back on the road and a quick breakfast at the Wimpy in Potgietersrus. I'm on my own, for this longhaul, so no one to keep me awake, but I have to press on.. 10 Hollanders have paid for a trip into the Okavango, and their flight arrives in Maun tomorrow at 12:30. The Bots border at Martins Drift is a breeze.
Halfway between Serowe and Letlhekane, I feel the need to pull over again. I find a shady tree and head offroad where I open the windows to catch a bit of a breeze, man it's hot. and I have another 40 winks. There's no way I'm going to make Maun at this rate so decide to stop at Rakops, there's an OK motel on the highway and I can leave early in the morning for the last 200 odd kilometers to Maun. I'm hot, dusty and dog tired and the road is miles of nothing. A goat darts accross the road and in my stupor I hit the poor thing, pull over to make sure it isn't suffering, but no need to worry, the poor thing is very dead.

On the road to Rakops

Rakops Motel


Finaly I arrive, check in and flop onto the comfortable bed and don't wake up until the next day. Bright and early and feeling well rested, I get back on the road, I reach Audi Camp outside Maun by 09:30. Enough time to set up the tents, buy some last minute supplies (fresh meat) and pick the group up at the airport in Audi Camp's kombie.
The next morning, I get the group out of their sleeping bags early and we drive the 60 odd k's to the village at the edge of the Delta in an old Samel 4x4 truck.
The track into the Delta

We arrive at the waters edge just after sunrise and now our 5 days in the wilds of the Okavango truly begins.


TBC

[iNdlovu]

The one thing about this kind of trip into the Delta is that you have to carry everything in these little Mokoros, it takes a lot of planning, the most difficult being the menu 'cos there are no fridges etc. On this trip we had 2 Mokoro just for our kit.

One of the the freighter Mokoros



Within about 10 minutes of getting on the water, just when everyone is getting used to balancing these wobbly things, there is a lagoon we have to cross, no big deal except this one is full of hippo.



One in particular is extremely grumpy, on a previous trip he charged us. Now there's no place to go out there, so we backed into a channel and quickly set the reeds alight to scare him off. It was a very small island, so no damage done, but at least Grumpy backed off enough to allow us to get past. Somehow I never feel too comfortable around these beasts while sitting in a wooden dugout about 2 inches above the water level, when you know that bailing out is not an option, either Mr Grumpy or a croc or 2 is lurking under there.

Anyhow, this time he's dozing elsewhere, we're accross the lagoon and on our way "upstream". The quiet and solitude hurts. There's just the faintest sound of the tinkeling of water against the wooden hull.


The poles make no sound as they sink into the water and propell the mokoro along. No one talks except when a poler sees something interesting (standing up gives them a better view) and then it's in very hushed whispers.



Oh how I long for that place again.

[iNdlovu]

Why don't we do an AW trip, I'll organise it all It will give a new meaning to a forum meet.

[Sprocky]

That sounds like a good idea, but before I can join I will need a windfall of some kind.

[iNdlovu]

You'll be surprised, I'll do a rough costing per head some time today. The most expensive part is the fuel to get there, but we can share vehicles. The flood waters get down to the Delta in about July/August, so we can plan for this time next year.

[harrys]

Good idea iNdlovu. Obviously you will need a 4x4 for a trip like this.

[iNdlovu]

Not at all harrys. It's good tarred road all the way to Maun, and then we use the Audi camp Samel to drive the last 60 k's to the waters edge. They drop us off and we give them a date and time to pick us up again. In between we go where we want, when we want.

[iNdlovu]

The hot Botswana sun beets down on our heads, the faintest of breezes keeping us cool but sunburn is a threat with the refelction off the water. A good hat and sunblock is a neccessity. Our mode of transport is not the most comfortable, most of them have a small leak somewhere, but the polers lay down a thick mat of straw for us to sit on which helps to keep our bums dry. After about an hour of gliding through channels and more open water we pull up on an island for a short walk to ease aching backs.

A hollow tree houses a swarm of wild bees, the polers mark the spot, they will come back later and 'borrow' some honey from their providers. We have a quick snack of cheese, buscuits and an apple; there is no fear of getting thirsty. The water is crystal clear, having been filtered through hundreds of kilometres of papyrus reeds. Bird life is all around, Jacana, Saddle bills, Spurwing and Egyptian geese, a confusion of harriers, kestrels and hawks. Vultures and eagles float on warm currents and at every turn in the channels, the call of fish eagles echo over the area signaling the location of bright white necks and heads perched on dead branches.There is an abundance of fish so there is no frantic searching on their part. The different coloured water lillies add to the canvas of the Master Artist, this truly is Eden.




The day seems to glide by as effortlessly as our progress along the watery channels and at about 15:00 we decide on a large island teaming with all kinds of game to set up camp for the next two nights. From our base, we will do 2 or 3 short walks per day surrounded by Zebra, Wildebees, Elephant and maybe a big cat or 2, their tracks are in abundance. The group pitch in and carry the camp gear the 30 odd meters from the water's edge to our site, whilst the polers clear and level the ground to ensure a restfull sleep tonight. In no time we are all set up and it's time to relax, in anticipation of our first night in the wild with all it's comming and goings of animals, hyena calls and who knows what.




The smell of woodsmoke signals that the fire is lit and we can get a pot on to boil for coffee.

Cool beers wash the dust away from our throats, the sun sinks lower toward the horizon, glowing through the haze of dust stirred up by vast herds of animals trekking to the water.


Perfection!!

[iNdlovu]

You're guaranteed a hot shower everyday, 3 good meals, a place where not many have been and a land that has not changed for centuries. Animals in abundance and comfortable sleep filled nights. peace and tranquility. Sure there are no white linnen sheets, tables set with table cloths and crystal glasses, but Lis I just know that you would have a ball and it really is an experience of a life time.

[Lorraine]

Lorraine, it is not only the bed in itself, it is getting into it and up again that worries me, especially if in a hurry. :lol:

Agree, and in and out of the transport as well.

lp