Africa Wild

Yesterday late afternoon we got back home after a very relaxing yet exciting trip to our beloved Kgalagadi. The first night we spent at Twee Rivieren, then nine in Grootkolk followed by two in Kieliekrankie and the last night in Mata Mata.

Grootkolk and Kieliekrankie waterholes delivered big time and activity on the Auob side is best between Kamqua and Craig Lockhardt at the moment. Some sightings gave great photo opportunities, others we just enjoyed silently because it was either night time or our view was slightly obstructed as in case of a full cheetah hunt and kill that started off right next to our car and ended up behind it

Our night time sightings at Grootkolk were honey badger, caracal, wild cat twice, eland twice, several lion and spotted hyena appearances (not at the same time though ), brown hyena, barn owl almost every night, but only one time the whole family of five and spotted eagle owl on a couple of occasions were absolute highlights for us.

We also got awoken by the jackal's howling and even heard the leopard coughing, but it had been too late because the darn jackal had only started when the leopard was already finished drinking

The lions were also rather vocal this time. They came like every other day or so in multiple constellations that I didn't really understand because there is definitely another big male around these days in addition to the old one that has a little cut in his other lip. Out of their five appearances it was only once that they came and went in silence.

Kieliekrankie was on its best behaviour. We've seen more specials there over our two day stay than we have on all other nights there combined. Amongst others - which I have photos of, so won't tell here quite yet - was yet another caracal and also the resident wild cat and barn owls (again - not together but after one another )

What I did badly at this time were the owls. Apart from those at the camps, I only found myself three spotted eagle owls this time round...

Also the fact that a lot of waterholes are out of work caused/causes some concern since it's still very dry in the park. On the Nossob side Union's End had water when we arrived but not anymore two days later. Kannaguass is demolished and the promised new waterhole has not appeared yet. Lijersdraai has been moved for quite some time now but is obviously not that well liked. Safran the leopard has moved south and the former resident spotted hyena clan went up north to the vicinity of Grootkolk. I put it down to the fact that the new waterhole lies very much in the open with not much shade around to rest or bushes to hide behind/underneath.

Further south from there is Langklaas that had just been re-opened again after years of being dry. Now the mill has fallen off, therefore once again no water there... Not far way is Kousant which was also dry. Kwang's water level was so low that you couldn't see any in there. Since we didn't see even birds there, we concluded that it's probably empty as well. Then next one towards Nossob is Cubitjie Quap with a very low waterlevel too. Going on towards Twee Rivieren there is Kamelsleep with no water and also Dikbaardskolk. Way too many!

On a positive note: The springbok have started lambing in a serious way. Every day we found plenty new lambs - particularly in the northern Nossob and mid to northern Auob. So there is hope for some rain to come soon.

Thanks, Mello. Very informative - 10/10 so far!

So here you are with our drive from Twee Rivieren to Grootkolk:

Basically our first sighting were three lions in the road close to Leeuwdril. They caused quite a commotion amongst the motorists. At some point there was no getting through anymore which annoyed the SO and I greatly because we still had a long way to go. But luckily with all the tossing and turning on the gravel, the lions were soon fed up and ambled into the riverbed. My photo shows only two anyway because number three was the least patient of the bunch and had already marched off.
Some 30 kays further on we bumped into some very agitated springbok, so we stopped the car and scanned the area. The SO mentioned that there were two cars park 200 metres further on but since the bokkies were facing the other direction I didn't give that too much credit. Well I should have... While we were still trying to figure out what exactly had spooked the antelopes, the next jam was building up ahead and what could have been a prime position ended up in queueing to get at least some shots in for identification. Our first leopard! Meet Esau (I still have to double check with Wanda, but I'm almost sure I got the ID right.):
At Rooiputs there was this beautiful booted eagle.
And then the light got too bright for nice photography - and how many wildebeest, springbok, gemsbok, hartebeest and ostrich photos in glaring light can one possess…

Further up at Kannaguass there was a lion sleeping off the hard night, so I took the compulsory proof shot (the SO makes me ) and we were on our way to Nossob again.
For those who don't know: You have to check in Nossob when going to Ghraragab, Grootkolk or Bitterpan. So we reported at reception at 12.02 pm, also wanting to fuel up because we would need every drop that we could get. Tough luck though because it was a Sunday and there is a two hour break from 12 to 2 pm… The lady at reception asked if we could wait that long but when she saw my reluctance and heard my pleading that we still had some way to go and it was hot, she kindly offered to serve us. Totally awesome!!!

There was nothing further all the way up to Grootkolk and the next day, which we considered our first proper day, because we didn't have to do any packing and unpacking and were able to totally relax, I didn't lift the big camera once. Mind you, I was still pretty out of it with my cold and by now I had managed to pass it on to the SO as well. The day after however, after having guarded the waterhole until after leopard'o'clock we decided to go on a short drive to see how Union's End was doing. For some reason we totally adore that waterhole even though it hasn't delivered anything but a jackal buzzard for us yet. Well, there was nothing again. Actually it was eerily quiet up there anyway but that might not be a surprise seeing that Grootkolk is the only waterhole working on a 50 kilometer stretch. Got a nice sighting of a martial to soothe me though.

Back in the camp at the waterhole we had a nice sighting of a bateleur. Unfortunately it got chased off by the troublebeests aka gnus on their mission to find water and to empty the waterhole in front of us
A brownie or two came in as well as a wild cat that evening, but no photos of that.

Thats why I stay at Rooiputs ..you dont get Jams in the morning as you are with the sightings at 'gate Opening ' ..there is no gate and no permits to be collected and returned ..so you have stuff to yourself last 45 mins of the day and first 45 mins in the morning ..but lovely pics ..love the Booted Eagle ..I WISH !!

What amazing camouflage on the leopard, Mello!

Well done to reception at Nossob!

Also never seen a booted eagle!

I also like sitting at a deserted waterhole, as long as there is water1