Heat Waves and Tsetse fly*

[Moggiedog]

A trip to be experienced to enable one to appreciate the magnitude of the beauty of Zambia and Zimbabwe. A trip that is not for the faint hearted! Rough, tough and unforgettable.
Do you want ice in your drinks? Do you want cell communications? If your answer is yes - pack a suite case and fly to the lodges.If this is your choice you will miss out on unforgettable encounters with animals, heat waves, hail storms and tsetse fly!
My choice - pack your tent and most important your sense of humour, get down and dirty and head out to the live the experience...........
Before I continue though - I have a different TR to complete. I also have thousands of photographs to select and sensor before my fingers fly across my keyboard to try and convey the magic of my trip to Zim Zam.

[Moggiedog]

Fortunately we did not have to set off too early in the morning as we were meeting the rest of our intrepid travelers at 08h30 at the Petroport near Hammenskraal which is only an hours drive from my front gate. But there is a certain person named Murphy who has plans to upset the best made arrangements. My sister was as sick as the proverbial dog! With the stop start start to our travels it was fortunate we had left early which allowed plenty of time for intermittent stops and still be on time to meet the rest of the crew.
It was not long before the group had congregated, introductions behind us and we were soon amiably chatting around the breakfast table.
My BIL and I wandered downstairs and were companionably chatting when a car stopped and asked if we need a lift! We must have looked like two hobos standing on the side of the road. This gave us a good giggle and relieved the tension of the bad start to the morning. Fortunately the medication seemed to have worked and sis was feeling a lot better.
Little did I realize, worse was still to come!

[Moggiedog]

Meeting the people at the Petroport near Hammenskraal


Our trusty chariot and home for the next three weeks

It wasn't long after we had been offered a lift to destinations unknown - I noticed my BIL had vanished. Not very concerned as we have known each other a long time and I was sure he would not be long I entertained myself by watching the LBJ's that flock around most eating places. Breakfast finished and every one climbing back into their vehicles BIL looked rather grey - oh dear oh dear oh dear - another one down with the dreaded malady! This was going to be a long road to Tshipise! It was very much a stop start journey for a time but things gradually started to settle and the time spent driving slowly became longer and longer. Feeling peckish I checked if it would be okay for me to eat some of the padkos I had packed.
"No problem" was the immediate response in duet.
I happily open the goody box to feed my growling stomach. Fortunately I was wearing a seat belt. My lunch was rudely interrupted by the screaming of brakes and the opening of both front doors simultaneously. Shaking my head in sympathy I consumed my lunch whilst my family got rid of their breakfast. BIL was not looking good and decided Sis would have to drive. He was soon fast asleep and we were making great progress. We finally caught up to the rest of the convoy and we all managed to arrive at the holiday resort at the same time.
Sis and I went in to do the bookings. Tempers were running a tad high and people were bickering over how many camp sites would be needed.
A bunch of strangers together on a first night can be pretty daunting. Finally we pulled to a final stop for the day. Rooftop tent was up in record time and that is the last we saw of BIL until the following morning! By know sis was feeling rather drained and tense so I decided to pack her off to have a shower.
Time to help the two newbies put up a tent. A lot of supervising was happening but E and I finally had the tent up and it was my turn to pitch my little igloo. When I looked around all the folk were either sitting having sun-downers or in the shower!


First night of the adventure

Muttering under my breath I quickly had my tent out and ready to pitch. I was using the tent the boys had used in Kruger and had repeatedly asked if everything was 100% and in the bag. If you want something done properly - check it and do it yourself. Now I was not muttering any more - but was steaming.
One thing I will say : I do not get - I get even.

[Moggiedog]

As I started joining the poles together and threading them through to pop the tent up I realized one was broken. Ever tried to pitch and igloo tent with one broken pole? Me neither but with a bit of inventiveness and help from P my lopsided igloo was soon standing firm.
Meandered across and joined the rest of the crew for dinner. Fortunately it had been arranged that a few of the nights the different couples would be cooking for the group - this was one of the nights a meal was prepared for us - and it was superb.
A quick shower and into bed.
I was woken by a strange sound. It looked like a huge rat was running backwards and forward across the top of my tent. Befuddled with sleep I lay and tried to figure out what it was. A howling gale was blowing and the rain was bucketing down.The tent was whipping and weaving around but fortunately staying firmly anchored. I realized it was the ropes from E and M's tent that had come adrift and was being slapped and dragged across my tent by the wind. A huge rats-nest knot in the rope made it look like a body with a very, very long tail! Amazing how our imaginations can play tricks on our eyes and ears.

From the darkness I heard a very worried cry
"Is Carol and her tent still there?"
Sis either worried or hopefully I had flown off into the dark black storm clouds like Mary Poppins with her umbrella.
I reassured her that she was not that lucky and I was firmly in place and intended to be there to bug them for the rest of the trip!

The following morning was a comparatively early start as we did not know how long it would take to cross the border. Fortunately we were all through in under two hours without any hiccups. Juggling documents and papers back into safe keeping, I realized my yellow fever certificate had gone walk-about. Not much could be done about it - would worry about it should I need it on my return to SA.

Our destination was Norma Jeans at lake Kyle.


The long road as viewed from the back seat,

Not far in miles but time consuming because of the police blocks, toll roads that are more numerous than the fleas on a stray dog. I had forgotten the inconvenience of the road blocks in Zim - some only 500 meters apart! Fortunately we turned on to a lesser used road and there were road blocks of a different nature.



Time for a lunch stop. Bil was up and about and almost back to his normal self.



Norma Jeans is a beautiful place to stop over. The gardens over looking the lake are exquisite. Quiet and peaceful with wonderful hosts. A huge boma was available for us to use which had a sheltered area containing a counter top, tables and chairs. Luxurious camping

First things first and camp had to be set up. Tonight I was going to be sleeping in the penthouse and Sis and Bil were going to be sleeping in the Taj Mahal. Another night we would not be cooking so had plenty of leisure time.

Penthouse& Taj Mahal with M Gardens surround the campsight

We would be spending two nights at Norma Jeans so this gave people a chance to visit the Ruins. My family decided to rest around camp, as we had seen the ruins on a previous trip. BIL did a "fix" on my tent pole. My strange little igloo was going to serve its purpose as my home for a good many nights.

After a scrumptious Sunday lunch there was more time to laze around and enjoy the tranquility of the surrounds.
M, E and I decided to drive to the dam wall for the sunset. Now I have no idea what settings my camera was on - but make your own judgement of the pictures.



The opposite side of the wall


As I climbed into the tent I was hit by the most incredible sense of loss. I was knocked for a six. Thoughts entered my head that my husband was not with me to share this incredible experience and I would not be able to babble about them on my return. I slowly climbed down the ladder and walked to a huge boulder and sat staring out over the lake. My sis found me and we chatted a bit and she left me to my thoughts. Knowing I was being ridiculous and unsociable I shook myself and joined the rest of the people round the fire.

Anticipation and excitement was rising. Everyone's thoughts were on reaching Mana Pools. Little did we know what was on the cards for the following day.

[Moggiedog]

All the fresh air and it wasn't long before everyone hit the hay. I am sure time has shortened as before we could say skitterdoodle we were packed and back on the road heading for Chinhoyi. Once again the road blocks and toll roads turned a half day drive into a full day drive helped along by the low speed limits and in some places road conditions.

The camp sight was basic but did have ablution blocks. Unfortunately with no power and such low water pressure to get a shower you had to break dance under the shower head. This is to be expected in a country that is bankrupt but at the same time every thing was immaculate and spotlessly clean. The people were friendly and very helpful as well as being very informative about their country. Even with the amount of poverty that abounds you never feel threatened in any way nor are you mobbed by beggars in the streets.
It was our turn to make dinner for the group. Unfortunately part of the ingredients had soured and we had a bit of a quandary of how to rescue dinner for eleven people. Fortunately you cannot keep happy campers down and soon a delicious meal was prepared and served. Chores done it was time to sit and relax around a fire.


It was a one nighter so I decided not to pitch tent - especially as there were immaculate "air conditioned" rooms freely available. A quick check for scorpions, spiders and other creepy crawlies - my bed was made and I was ready for an early night. A quick walk around looking for scorpions - only managed to find one - I was soon tucked into my bed and falling asleep to the sound of three different owls calling in the background.



Early the next morning as the first hint of light stroked my face, I was up and packed ready for the day. We had allocated an hour to visit the caves before hitting the road for Mana Pools. The big boss and I drank coffee together watching two broad billed rollers and a couple of crows scuttling round the camp sight. Slowly other heads began to emerge and we were almost packed. The boss had packed away the penthouse and took a few moments to enjoy the surrounds from a vantage point or perhaps to catch his breath before packing the rest of the bags and baggage!
A group of school children went dashing past, shouting out "What you doing? Where you going?" and disappearing in a cloud of dust before we could reply. Each one with huge smiles on their faces.



We arrived at the reception to the caves at about 06h30 and after much confusion came up with the correct entrance fee. Finally heading towards the underground cave's entrance we were interrupted by the receptionist telling us the cameras had to pay a $ each. Another fumbling about in pockets, as we had all left our money in the vehicles, we eventually found enough to pay for the cameras. We were told it was not very strenuous and we did not need torches. Just as well as I am definitely not very fit and I did not want to waste more time looking for some light form.

A hole in the ground awaited us. A steep slope interlaced with dimmed stairs disappeared into the distant gloom. Feeling rather than seeing the steps we fumbled into the darkness doing our damnedest not to slip and fall in the dark stairwell.


In the distance a brilliant blue light could be seen shimmering against mighty rocks. Framed by brilliant green leaves the sleeping pool revealed itself. Guarded high above by massive trees surrounding the light way above our heads.




I believe everyone of us had our breath taken away (not just from the climb down the steps!) - not in our wildest imaginations could we have envisaged the splendor of the caves. The brilliant blue water rippled gently as blue tinged, silver fish created patterns across the pool. Reflections of rocks and trees perfectly mirrored across the surface of the underground water.



Each lost in their own thoughts we sat and admired this underground splendour. A feeling of peace and tranquility invaded my body. After a few moments we silently made our way back up the steps.
Some of us a lot slower and crablike than others!

Some of our group decided to visit the dark cave. I had no intention of going as I knew I was not fit enough and my mind was so full of what I had just seen and felt I did not want to break the image or destroy the euphoria that had filled my soul.

Our allocated time had been stretched and we were rather concerned about making Mana Pools in daylight. We still wanted to stop for ice and a few other odds and sods and refuel our thirsty cars.

[Moggiedog]

For more info on the cave and why they are so blue: http://www.zimparks.org/index.php?optio ... &Itemid=19

If anyone would like to see the full size pics - and different ones - http://www.flickr.com/photos/moggiedog/

[Moggiedog]

found a rather bad pic of the rollers. I remember grabbing my camera and with shaky hands taking the shot

[Moggiedog]

Another smooth drive except we realized another two people had come down with the trots! Both from the same vehicle. Fortunately it seemed they had not been as hard hit as my family and managed to keep up with the convoy with intermittent stops! My heart went out to them. Temperatures were rising and every time you got out of the car it felt as if you had entered a furnace.
Basic shopping done and our first sight of animals - seven elephant in the distance - were behind us, and we were still outside of the park boundaries. A quick stop to get our permits and yellow bags from the wildlife office and we were on the road again.


Mana Pools is a no garbage area and all your rubbish must be removed when you leave. I have heard stories that if you do not hand in a full yellow rubbish bags on your way out you are sent back to fetch your rubbish - whether this is urban legend or fact is any ones guess- we were not willing to put it to the test.
Yellow bags safely stowed away we were soon on our way. Once we left the tar road the actual road into Mana Pools is horrific.

Miles and Miles of corrugations that loosened even your own teeth - never mind what would have happened if your wore dentures! The heat had not abated and in fact the temperatures were rising. Fortunately air-con goes along way to stop one from spontaneously combusting!
A long silent drive in terms of human conversation as it was impossible to talk over the rattling and thumping that emanated from all directions as we bounced our way along the dirt. The only human interaction was the continous passing of drinks between back and front seats.
We did see impala, giraffe and eland but did not stop as we wanted to get into camp.
Another check point and the convoy came to a halt. Permits to be checked (again).

The shimmering heat had us heading for whatever small patch of shade we could find. There was going to be a delay as the first porridge wheel of the trip was in evidence. As the woman watched the macho men got stuck into repairing the puncture.
A game viewing vehicle stopped and wanted to know if we were heading for the Pools. His advise was to turn round and go home as a huge baobab had fallen across the road and there was no access. We were not falling for this and told him to pull the other one. He tried the same stunt with the men. I am sure they were not amused as the heat was taking its toll and the puncture was being obstinate and was taking longer than expected to repair. Once again the tremendous sense of humor and friendliness was displayed by the local people. We chatted for a bit and he told us he could almost guarantee we would see dogs! This was taken with a pinch of salt as these elusive creatures make a habit of playing hide and seek with us - and they hide better than we seek.


Having consumed litres of liquid as well as carrying bottles of water to the hard working men - we were on our way once again. At least the road had improved!
We slowly followed the twisty road and were rewarded with sightings of elephant, eland, warthog and many more creatures.

I can only imagine how beautiful this park would be if it was not gripped in the crushing hands of a drought. Where ever you looked it was dead trees and sand. It is surprising that anything could survive. But this harsh landscape has its own beauty.

On arrival at reception we realized one of the group was missing! Convey procedures had not been followed it was tail end charlie who had not arrived at the destination. This was frustrating and annoying as we had been in radio contact and the second last vehicle assured us everyone was in sight and okay. The decision was made to check in and we would head back to look for the missing vehicle. The one couple did offer me a lift to the camp - but I far preferred to stick with my family - after all - we were in it together - for the good and the bad. All the three of us wanted to do was set up camp and relax with something ice-cold to drink.



We back tracked constantly radioing for our missing travelling companions. Another vehicle heading towards reception stopped and said they had seem the car making their way towards the camp sight. Relief all round and eventually we met up and once again we headed towards camp.

Another porridge (pap) wheel! This time the changes had to be made without assistance. The time had come to re-iterate how important convoy procedures are! Admittedly the couple in the second last car where not feeling up to scratch with the bug gnawing away at their insides!

It was mid afternoon and pitching tents as the sun beat down on us was not pleasant. Fortunately we were under a huge tree and the shade did give us an allusion of coolness - a tiny, tiny breeze could have made all the difference.

[Moggiedog]

As the day wore on the heat seem to intensify and so did tempers. The only thing that seemed to be packed on ice was peoples sense of humor. I was not going to allow conflicting parties to ruin any second of my dream trip. It is well known it is very hot at this time of the year but the heat wave being experienced was pushing temperatures way beyond peoples tolerance. Even a cold show was not on offer - the water was at best body temperature. We had resorted to walking around draped in wet towels or wet shirts.
As darkness descended the heat seemed to intensify. After an early meal it was off to the ovens to try and get some sleep.
We were serenaded to be by the roar of more than one lion - answered by the cheeky yip off jackal .
I lay in my tent with my head out of the door - but the abrupt laugh of a hyena startled me. Then I saw it. It was close very, very close - in fact in touching distance. Realising the stupidity of my actions I zipped up the mosquito net and allowed the call of jackal and the roar of lion interspersed with various nights sounds coax me to sleep. It wasn't long before I was woken by the sound of hooves and the unmistakable click of an eland as he browsed round the tree I was sleeping under. I peered out the door and the surrounding area was alive with Impala, waterbuck, Eland as well as buffalo. Perhaps this was there safe haven away from the predators that could still be heard loudly airing their views.
The following morning after being woken by rutting Impala we had to wait for an elephant to move off before we could hit the showers. Keeping a watchful eye on him we soon had had out coffee and were ready for our first game drive. No sign of the heat abating. We set out without any fixed route in our heads just going wherever the roads should take us. Our first sighting (besides the animals in the camp) was of a side striped jackal. Not long after that we started seeing Eland, Impala, zebra, giraffe, kudu and of course elephant.
What we found amazing is how small the elephant are. Young followed mothers that looked as if they should still be with their mothers. Perhaps nature compensating for the lack of food. Even the bulls seemed to be very small compared to the elephants in Kruger.
We had been told the lion had killed two nights previously - we didn't find the lion but we could certainly smell the kill. What was strange, a single marabou stork was the only scavenger in evidence at the kill. The smell was overpowering and we did not stop for long. We ambled along chatting amiably, keeping our eyes peeled when all hell broke loose! The amazing part - we had just been saying it must be too dry for tsetse fly - and the words were hardly past our lips when the attack started. Windows closed in double time - but these flies from hell invasion was a ruthlessly executed attack of precision and stealth.
Being on the back seat I had the major army bombarding me. If any one had seen my antics as I attacked back as best I could I would have been locked in a mental home.
We had conscientiously worn the recommended colors, avoided colors attractive to these demons and had set up a doom laden tsetse fly trap in the back - all to no avail. The lotions that supposedly repelled them seemed to attract them!
It seemed to take for ever - but in fact it was not long before the cars was tsetse fly clear. We had won that battle but definitely not the war. Keeping a watchful eye as these dive bombers flew next to the car waiting for the unsuspecting occupant to open a window. Finally it seemed we were once again in a "safe" area and could open our windows. Time to head back for camp and breakfast and to find a place to put our feet up and relax.

[Moggiedog]

We found ourselves a shady spot under a tree next to the river. The water looked very inviting but discretion was the better part of valor. Deciding there were too many crocs, elephant and hippo to jump into the coolness we settled for watching the birds in the branches. You know its hot when birds sit with beaks open - gasping for breath. The bright sails of the canoes gave a festive atmosphere to the river. As we watched the elephant swimming to the various islands a sudden commotion of splashing water caught our attention. If I can give one single snippet of advise - always have your camera at the ready - none of us had and only a small lens was available. This was not the first time we were caught with our pants down when it came to photo opportunities. Fortunately there was a happy ending - things could have turned out a lot different! I will let the distant pic tell the story.

As the gentleman gentle sailed past us - a cheerful voice called out something about underwear! Whether the hippo was in fact charging the little boat or whether he just go a bee in his bonnet we will never know.
Some of the people simply lazed around


but as per usual I was restless and decided a spot of washing would get rid of some of my banked up energy. Sadly I have never been one that can sit still for long periods of time! I collected washing from sis and BIl and got down to some seriously hard work. I know I am dreadful - but I had been wearing socks with sandals - purely and simply because I could not find my shoes and I was sick to death of having filthy dirty feet. There is only one way to wash dirty socks!

One way to stay cools was to wash the clothes I was wearing and to put them straight back on without bothering to hang them out to dry.
The afternoon drifted in and we decided to go out comparatively early to charge batteries and get the freezer running. In the horrific heat the freezers and batteries were battling to cope. The rest of the group were going out a bit later and we agreed to meet at Mana Mouth for sun-downers. We enjoyed these moments of driving alone and not having to worry about cars following us.
With the intense heat I had set up a bush fridge to cool down our drinks before "heating" the freezer with hot drinks - it worked a treat - but we decided an ice cold drink was the order of the day. We had been told we could get cold drinks at the shop.
The bush fridge
- once wrapped with a wet towel - evaporation did the trick!

Unfortunately the person who ran the shop was out in places unknown chopping wood. What a disappointment! What I had not told my family I had placed some drinks in the freezer for later. It was hard to keep this surprise from them as they had really been looking forward to a very, very cold drink. I did have some cool if not ice cold drinks to tide us over.
As was the norm we headed out with no plans in mind of where we would be going. Plenty of game was seen including very small elephant, lots of baboon, impala, Eland - a fleeting glimpse of a roan. We had the tsetse fly war well under control and it looked like we were on the winning side!



Although we had arranged to meet the rest of the group at the mouth for sundowners - we did not make it!